I have used TR3 with much success on machines that have a good strong clear coat. I like the extra coat of protection it gives the machine.
I don't get it near my oldies as I am fairly sure it will remove paint or decals. I have heard of stories of it silvering decals quickly on machines with perished clear coat. I would recommend testing any wax type product on a hidden corner to see the results before attacking an entire machine.

Suzanne

TR3 has proven to be able to clean layers and layers of grime off machines, and I haven't had it damage decals. On a truly nasty Singer 12 it uncovered decals which were totally invisible when starting the cleaning process.

That said, a recently purchased can came with a red and white sticker on the front, reading "NOT FOR USE ON VEHICLES WITH CLEAR COAT" which was rather disconcerting. Otherwise the printing on the can is the same as before. I have used a little product from this new can, and the results didn't seem any different. Possibly car finishes have changed and are less durable?

Dianne in Colorado

Suzanne, TR3 is made for protecting car paint so I doubt it will harm the paint on a sewing machine, but you are right to be cautious in using it on a very old machine.

Dianne, I have a family member who owns an auto body shop, I'll ask him why TR3 now has that warning. Something must have changed, either the formula for the TR3 or maybe there's been a change in how cars are painted or how clear coats are made.

Cari

WI used it on a crappy looking Singer 201 with great results. Same vintage so it should shine it up.

As I understand it, and I could have misunderstood previous information. The black FW's have shellac clear coat over the decals, as well as the 201's. That being the case, I would use Glenn's method of French Polishing with shellac rather than any other polish. Of course, the French Polishing is more work, but I'm more concerned about the machine than I am the amount of work! Glenn, if you read this thread, please give us your expert opinion! Thanks.

Jeanette

Shellac is a form of resin, I'm not all sure how it's made but it involves tree sap and a bug. How does artificually made resin difffer from the natural? I'm sure they used polishes and cleaners back when these machines were new, but I know most probably didn't. In my mind resin type polish could be ideal for these machines. As previoulsly mentioned I have tested on a few more or less worn machines, it didn't damage anything; paint shines up and decals was not affected evenin worn spots. I don't really know the list if ingredients in a modern resin type polish, nor how it will affect the shellac 50 years from now. My 201 was made in 1950, it's in fairly good condition. Even though I use this machine it's my aim to hand it over to the next owner in about the same condition as I got it, hopefully better; no missing parts and all working. The only way I have a chance at that is with a protecting polish.

The clear coat is shellac on the FW and 201 to protect the decals even though they are painted. I use the french polish method because it puts more shellac over the decals. It is more work buts gives a nice smooth shine to the machine. If you have plenty of clear coat on the machine TR3 will shine it up with no problems. If little shellac remains over the decals TR3 is a glazing compound to remove fine scratches in paint and it will silver the decals if one is heavy handed with the stuff. I have used TR3 on machines with a good clear coat with no problems but it would be the final smoothing and shining of the clear coat.

Listen to Glenn, Glenn is wise....

I agree -- I'll listen to Glenn. I'm still afraid to try the French polish method but maybe I'll work up the nerve sometime.
Ila