problem winding featherweight bobbin
 

I have a featherweight identical to the one in this image. [ATTACH=CONFIG]507152[/ATTACH] When I try to wind the bobbin, after pulling the mechanism down into contact with the belt, the slick black plastic wheel slips against the leather belt making sporadic, incomplete contact. The bobbin spins in fits and jerks instead of smoothly. What to do?
Yes, the mechanism is all the way down in contact with the belt. Yes, I have disengaged the fly wheel.

Do you have the correct bobbin?

First; I would check to make sure everything is in proper alignment. Correct if needed.

Second; I would remove the bobbin assembly and clean it thoroughly. Reassemble it correctly making sure the wheel shaft is properly lubed and spins freely and the winder will stay in place against the belt without you holding it. If I remember right there is a very thin thrust washer between the winder and machine body, so make sure that's there.

Third; I'd take some alcohol on a rag and clean the belt. Make sure it has no oil on it's surface.

Forth; check the belt tension.

That's really about all I can think of to do.


Joe

Everything spins freely. There just doesn't seem to be enough constant friction between the slick black wheel and the leather belt. Even when I held it down firmly against the leather belt, the plastic wheel slipped occasionally. Perhaps the alcohol would do the trick.

Featherweights don't need a bobbin tire do they?

Nope, they don't use a tire.

Yours uses a plastic bobbin winder wheel? Hmmm, ours is metal.

Just to be clear, you do have a black leather V-belt and not one of the amber colored plastic belts, right?
The reason I ask is those amber plastic belts are slick and don't always work as they should.

Joe

My FW is identical to the photo. It is a slick black plastic winder wheel and a white leather belt.

First of all, compared to later Singer machines the bobbin winding system on a Featherweight is not all that great. Several things have to be just right to make it work well. And the white machines with the black plastic bobbin wheel and motor pulley are the worst due to the reduced coefficient of friction (slipperiness) of the plastic.

The plastic wheel is press-fit to the winder shaft and sometimes is slightly cocked on the shaft, causing the OD of the wheel to wobble and not run true (this is called “runout”). You should be able to see this wobble if you turn the winder shaft slowly and watch the edge of the wheel. If you are careful you can reseat the bobbin wheel on the shaft and make it run more true (without runout).

If you still have the white belt then it is likely original. Several problems will develop with the old original belt. In addition to the belt becoming worn and slick, it may have also set in one position too long and "taken a set" around the motor pulley. This will cause a high spot in the belt that will push the bobbin winder away from the belt each time it comes around. That is why the winder jerks and does not run smoothly. This can be solved by replacing the belt.

Unfortunately you won't find a white belt as they have not been made in some time. When you buy a replacement be sure you buy from a knowledgable FW specialist that turns their inventory over often. There are good quality belts and there are bad ones. A while back all we could get were bad belts that were way too thick and heavy. That situation has improved in general (from the suppliers where most retailers get their belts) and a couple of other sources are now making better quality belts. The pinkish brown plastic toothed belts are actually better for bobbin winding as they are "stickier" on the OD and "grab" the winder wheel better than the black rubber belts. But many folks don't know how to adjust them and don't like the looks. Either will work.

When you look at a oiling diagram for the FW it shows to put a drop of oil on the pivot point for the bobbin winder. In my opinion this is unnecessary and a bad idea. You only need to lube things that move. A bobbin winder is supposed to spend its life either winding a bobbin, or the other 99 percent of the time just 1/8 to 1/4" off the belt. Oiling it so it will move that 1/8" makes no sense and only serves to eventually make the winder too loose to stay against the back of the belt. If yours won't get tight and stay put, take it off and clean the mating surfaces and washers of all oil and reassemble it. Don't forget to clean off the machine casting where the winder makes contact with it.

If you do all this and you still can't get a consistently tight and proper bobbin wind, then just place your finger on the winder where the oil hole is while you are winding a bobbin and hold it down against the belt. No you shouldn't have to do it but there are worse things in life.

Good luck!

David

Great explanation, David.

I also thought about putting some "tooth" on the black plastic winder. Maybe using a couple thin lines of silicone caulk so there would be some "grab" when it contacted the leather belt. And maybe getting some coarse sand paper and roughing up the belt.

What do you think?

You're so knowledgable about what we sewers do to our machines, David. Thank you, this helped me tremendously, and I'm not even in FW mode this morning--I am just back from a visit in Texas with my grandchildren, and haven't even begun to settle back into my own everyday world. I am glad I opened up this posting.

If "I" were to try this I would try "handle dip". It is the rubber-like substance you dip the handles of tools in to give then that grip surface. Big Box Stores sell this stuff in quart cans.

Try a rubber band around the wheel. If it don't work, there's nothing to clean off.


Joe

I would hesitate to do anything that permanently altered a white bobbin winder. Parts in good condition for the white
FWs are hard to find and expensive when you do. You might just want to wipe the OD of the wheel with a rag moistened in spray contact cleaner (not kerosene because it will leave an oily film, and not brake cleaner or other solvent that might attack the plastic. Contact cleaner was used to clean rheostats and will not harm the plastic). Then just make sure the belt is clean and the proper tightness.

David

Edit - Joe's idea of the rubber band is great! Increases "traction" with no permanent alteration.

I just lean my finer on it to increase grip/pressure. ???? Works for me.

Good idea. I have some of that stuff under my kitchen sink, too.

Will try the rubber band idea tonite. I really didn't like the idea of caulking or dipping, but I am desperate.

Problem solved.

Replaced white leather belt with new plastic belt. Applied narrow strip of adhesive skate board traction tape to the black pastic wheel. Put a drop of oil on the shaft of the black pastic wheel.

Works like a charm. Now to replace the ight bulb.