Refinishing a parlor cabinet
 

I just got a pretty little New Home in a parlor cabinet. The bottom part of the cabinet is rotted off but the rest of the cabinet is still sound. On the top, where the machine sits when it's being used, there's a ruler decal. The finish is a mess on the outside and poor on the inside and I want to get it off, but I want to save the decal. I bought some Formby's but I haven't started. Anyone have an idea how I can save the decal? I know the cabinet will never be 'like new', but I don't like to leave it like this.
I know the machine has nothing to do with my question. I just included it because it's so cute. Sorry.

If Glenn doesn't answer, ask him on this thread:

https://www.quiltingboard.com/tutori...s-t109859.html

bkay

Thanks, bkay.

I m studying you cabinet. You need to use denatured alcohol and linseed seed oil to get that mess off the cabinet. Before you start let me know and I will walk you thru the process

BTW I have the same machine by New Home in an original Hand crank.

Won't alcohol damage the ruler decal? I'm most worried about that. Should I put masking tape or electrical tape over it?
I'm probably going to try tomorrow to work on the cabinet. I'll pick up some alcohol and linseed oil, today. It needs a new floor, too, and one of the bins is off the door, but they kept it. First I want to get the crust off. I think the wood is going to be pretty nice, in spite of the missing veneer, if I don't destroy it.

They're pretty little things, aren't they? Haven't tried to sew with it, yet, but it moves as if the parts weren't touching. Very smooth and light.

Are those two veneer spots in the front the only missing places? I'm still working on my first veneer patch. I had to remove it, as the veneer was too thin. Glenn said use a double or triple layer. So, I'll do it again, as I have plenty of veneer. It's not that hard to do, or that expensive. At Rockler, the wood working chain store, they have packages of 3 sheets of 8 X 10 veneers for about $10.00 (depending on the wood). You wouldn't need over 1/2 a sheet.

Let me know how many spots you have. I might be able to send you enough to do that patch.

bkay

My 2 cents --- NO tape, as it would probably do more damage than small amount of alcohol with linseed oil. I think that even some plastics will damage wood. Hopefully, Glenn has some ideas of how to protect the ruler.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Formby's will strip it to the bare wood. If you are real careful, you might be able to hand sand close to the ruler and still be able to refinish the top. Just keep the Formby's far away from the decal. it has a tendency to spread into the wood.

That is one pretty machine. Good luck with the cabinet.

Get some low tack painter's tape the 1/2" wide stuff. Lay it along side the decal but not on the decal to all sides of the ruler decal. Cut some wax paper so that it will over lap the painter's tape and tape the paper down over the previously laid tape and then nothing will be touching the decal to harm it.

Wow! Thanks for that tip. I'll save it.

bkay

[QUOTE=bkay;7870156]Are those two veneer spots in the front the only missing places? I'm still working on my first veneer patch. I had to remove it, as the veneer was too thin. Glenn said use a double or triple layer. So, I'll do it again, as I have plenty of veneer. It's not that hard to do, or that expensive. At Rockler, the wood working chain store, they have packages of 3 sheets of 8 X 10 veneers for about $10.00 (depending on the wood). You wouldn't need over 1/2 a sheet.

Let me know how many spots you have. I might be able to send you enough to do that patch.

bkay[/Q

That's the worst of the veneer, but the whole bottom has rotted. 4" in front are gone and the rest is delaminated. I'm thinking that I'll just get a piece of oak plywood to replace it, but there's some molding missing, too, and more that's just about to fall off. It's not going to be 'new' again.
If you do have a tiny piece of veneer that would match, I'd love to have it. I hoped that I could get veneer locally, but apparently not. I got a chunk from a furniture repair guy but it's not a good match.

Great idea. I have some purple painters' masking tape around here. I'm not sure it's low tack. I'll check.
Then, what do I do with the alcohol and linseed oil? I suppose I should try to fix the floor before I get into stripping off the varnish? shellac? but I really want to see what the wood looks like.

Thanks, everyone. I really appreciate your help.

Get lots of rags and denatured alcohol, and linseed oil. Get the rag wet with alochol and add a few drops of oil to the rag and wipe down the wood until all the color is even and smooth. It is a dirty job so wear gloves.You really do not need the oil. The finish is shellac and the alcohol will blend and melt the old shellac. You will need to do this until all the finish is off. You can use stripper but it is very hard on the veneer. Now you will need a light walnut stain to go over the thing to make it even in color. Then you will have to apply two or three coats of shellac. Then rub down the finish with wax and fine steel wool and then wax. Yes do all repairs first before refinishing the cabinet.

Can anyone tell me what kind of wood that is? I went to the Rocklin veneer page and realized I know nothing about wood (among other things).

Off to get some shellac, then. And tomorrow I begin....
Thanks for all the help.

It is white oak veneer.

PM me with your address and I'll send you 1/2 a sheet.

bkay

I have a habit of collecting wood cabinets that look that bad, and dragging them home to give them a coating of "Old English Dark" furniture oil. You would be amazed what it could do for that cabinet. I do not know if it would bother the decal because I have never run into that problem. For really dry wood I have been known to coat the whole piece of wood to seal out moisture.
I was given a rocking chair that a puppy had cut teeth on, that had all of the stain and finish, and some of the wood missing. I brought it home. Used a little sanding to make it smoother, not perfect, and then used the "OED oil" on it and until I point it out, no one sees it. I do put a couple layers of oil on the really dry or scratched areas. Best part is the color of the oil hides a multitude of boo boos. I also use it on my dining table to protect the finish from wet glasses, and hide the rings it got before I started oiling it.

i have the same cabinet and machine, also with a rotted out base, though my cabinet does not need refinishing. i like the idea of replacing base with a piece of oak plywood. I'm assuming that could then be stained to match the cabinet's colors?

I tried alcohol and it didn't seem to do anything but make it sticky for a couple of minutes then go back to normal. I tried some formbys and that worked on most of the finish but there's still a lot of what feels like rubber cement. My rags is stick to it like it was Scotch tape. Is that some kind of wax? Polyurethane?
And did they rub some kind of black stuff into the grain in those days? I'd like to get that out, but it's not as important as getting the crust off.

No it is shellac that gets sticky. You need to keep going with the alcohol or the formsby until all the sticky is gone. It is not a quick process. Just keep scrubbing until all finish is gone. You will know when it is clean when the wood looks dry with no shinny areas and no sticky anywhere. Don't use oil to feed the wood. Wood is dead so no feeding is needed. It is the finish(shellac in this case) that gives wood the glow you want. Of course the stain gives the color such as light or dark oak then the finish brings out the color and makes the cabinet pretty. The cabinet could have been waxed by a previous owner at some time. Take your time and it will come clean.

It is indeed a slow process. The doors are done and look better, if not great. When I'm done I'll send a picture.
Thanks for your patience and help

You never have to apologize for showing us a pretty little vintage machine. :)

The painter's tape Glenn mentioned will work. That's how they masked off the original jack instructions on my 66 Mustang when they repainted it. It worked great and didn't harm the old paper.