Thanks everyone. As near as I can tell most every thing else moves. The presser feet an the hand wheel, but only just the play. I have dowsed it with oil top to bottom.
Reverse buttons are a royal pain, Miriam, I just got through unsticking last week. And after that, I began work on a 500A that it appeared someone had sprayed with pam cooking oil. It was covered with this yellow oil. Tri-flow didn't do much, but WD40 did and after I got all the old gum out I oiled it again with tri flo and sewing machine oil. The presser foot bar on that one was gummed with that yellow stuff too. Took several days of WD to get it moving. Got it moving a bit, but it would take 30 seconds for it to drop under full presser. Now it plops down the way it should.

Thanks again everyone.

Ethel

Ethel, now you have to get rid of the WD40, too. I'm inclined to use a solvent that will dissolve the old stuff when I see that stuff. Kroil is good to use on the stuck stuff.

WD40 is not for use in sewing machines. You'll have to spend a lot of time removing it all now, like Miriam said. It took me 8 hours to remove all of the WD40 from a machine. Not good or fun...

I only use it as a solvent, not an oil. I wipe it all off, along with the dried oil it dissolves and then use SM oil. I usually wait a couple of days and then oil again wiping up the excess SM oil or tri-flo.
I don't use it as an oil on SM, only on door hinges and such around the house!
So don't worry about me ruining a wonderful old machine, I love them too much.

Triflow is a much better choice, IMO. WD40 should not be used on sewing machines.

This may seem like a stupid question, but you were able to loosen the clamp on the needle bar okay? Is it accessed through a hold from the blind side? Of course, I'm sure you did, but just in case :thumbup: One thing I did one time on a very stuck one, was fashion a bit of a jack screw under the needle arm. I used a bolt with a large flat head, a hex connector, and another bolt on top and a jam nut, I think between the hex connector and one of the bolts, to make it rigid. I put a piece of wood under the jack screw, and a piece of aluminum on top, and using a pair of open end wrenches and about 5 hands, heat, oil, and magic spells, was able to get it to budge upwards a bit. Then I used something I won't go into to able a little downward pressure. Good luck with that!

Yea! I love WD-40. Works every time. I use it nearly every day at work. Flannel rags and an air compressor will remove it. Use canned air if you don't have an air compressor. It's not as bad as everyone says. Really. As I understand, it's got kerosene and fish oil in it.

Thought I would let every one know the darn thing is still stuck.
I put it away for a while, when I get it out again, I will try the press thing Jim suggested. Wish they made a gear puller small enough, I will think up something!

Thanks for all the suggestions!!

Ethel

There is not only the needle shaft but the parts behind it have close tolerances, too. Kroil is the new one I've been trying. It seems to work on stuck shafts but I haven't had as good results on stuck reverse buttons. BUT I don't spray it on I drop it on. I don't want to do massive clean ups.

Needle bar clamp is loose right?