OK Mikey , I’m gonna give it a try soon . Got a couple of things I’m currently in the middle of but I think I’ll attempt this . What could possibly go wrong ? I would like to have a go to option applying by hand and not just counting on a bunch of coats of wax .

Too thick solution, sometimes the ready to use shellac are a bit on the thick side to get the layers even and nice. Poor in a bit of denaturated alcohol if it turns out to be on the thick side.

Going over the surface twice when applying shellac can cause hickups, wait a minute or two until it has dried, then a new layer. Even motions in one direction. In the worst of case the alcohol can end up dissolving and removing the newly applied shellac.

I guess a lot of things can go wrong in theory, but it usually doesn't. Start with a clean surface and the new shellac will bond well, I think some slightly buff down the sheen on older furniture when redoing the top layers, but of course you can't do that too much over decals. I have seen lacquers flake for some reason, including shellac, but I can't say I know what caused it, and it has been older machines. I have seen people apply shellac with a brush and get a good result, I think the reason for the cloth ball is it's easy to get a nice result, and buffing out the day after. (The use of pumice powder too, but that's for wood).

Thank you Mikey . The more we talk , the more you elude to these hiccups. Guess it’s just like everything else in that it’s only easy after you’ve failed at it a couple of times . So we’ll just have to see how the American Polish method turns out . Thanks, you been a lot of help .