What do I need for the Workroom?
 

I want to put together a decent set of tools and supplies for my Sewing machine workroom. DH is going to build a stand like OurWorkBench has shared pictures of (that is sooo neat!).

So, do you have any special tools/supplies you really like using for working on the sewing machines?

I've always wanted a nice Dremel tool, and I already have a decent sonic washer . . .

DH and I will be making a trip into the Twin Cities some time next month, so that will be a good time to pick up supplies and tools.

LINK: http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...s-t243276.html

The tool I have the hardest time finding is a good screw driver. For a sewing machine it needs a narrow, thin blade.

Cathy, I don't work on my Bernina but just wanted to say how great that you can share your passion with your husband. Have fun when you go out shopping for tools that you need.

Oh yeah! Preferably in at least three different sizes, and make sure they are very sturdy. Those old screws can be stubborn.

You have a good idea with getting a Dremel. A few good bits, like a medium grit grinding drum and some polishing pads, will save you hours!

If you don't have a camera, I recommend getting maybe a basic digital one for taking pictures so when you're done taking the machine apart so you can remember how to put it back together. And if you don't already have it, Evaporust is pure magic for rust removal. Pick up a jug or two.

a note on screwdrivers. Get good ones, and I don't mean just name brand, I mean GUNSMITH screwdrivers. The flats are ground parallel. not tapered like most screwdrivers. your screw slots are straight sided meaning most screwdrivers only contact at the very top edge.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod6739.aspx

that is the first set I came across, they are pretty spendy but they don't damage stuff.

BTW - my husband was an auto and heavy equipment mechanic in his prior life - so we understand the importance of good tools. That's why my favorite finish sander is a Festool. Talk about getting spoiled!

Also, so far my husband has not been impressed with the gunsmithing screwdrivers he's bought. Lots of money but he didn't feel the quality was there to justify the increased cost.

Lots and lots of small containers for Q-tips and cotton balls and holding parts for a machine you are working on. I never have enough containers! I like appropriately size cardboard boxes to for machines that come in-to hold them and all their larger attachments. They are nice to label and use as parts are removed, motors, foot controllers, lamps etc.

Large pads of some sort to put the machines on while working on them. I use small white cotton rugs, but wish I had a good white pad, so I could see things on them.

I use puppy potty pads. They work well and are disposable once they get too dirty.

Ok- I went through the post Miriam linked (thank you!)

Since my husband has a well stocked shop from years as a mechanic, there are some tools he has that I won't duplicate at this time. Some of them he may move to the workshop as he plans on using it for working on smaller projects too - no small gas engines though!

Some of the more common stuff, like screwdrivers, I'm not listing because I already have them. And since the vast majority of my machines are treadle, I'm not going to stock any electrical supplies to start with. If DH wants them, he can bring them from the shop.

Fire extenquisher (because we keep on in any building we work in - just in case)
Dremel tool with lots of attachments
Magnifying glass on stand
Flashlight
Small vice
Tweezers
Camera mount (I have a nice DSLR, may need to get an "upclose" lens for it)
magnetic pad (have several trays) hopefully a used vehicle sign.

Supplies:
Pipe cleaners
q tips
Soft foam for supporting machines
rubber bands
steel wool
disposable syringe
disposable makeup tools
Popsicle sticks
Tooth pics
bamboo skewers
hemostats
hose (for noise location)

Must have Tammi's pool noodle cut in lengths - very handy.

The men selling them freak out because I'm picky but I look for antique screwdrivers at flea markets - I haven't bought a new screw driver that is any good.

I find carpet squares used upside down really work well because I can spin the machine around easily. Get a Dremel with a cord the battery charger goes out on the battery driven ones. Light with an adjustable arm so it can be pointed at your work.

Dental stuff. Picks, the tiny brush things for cleaning between braces, etc. All great for cleaning under and inside the machines.

Cari

I thought this was going to be your sewing room. Are you combining the space with fixing machines too?
You're also going to need a space for fixing cabinets, cases, etc. Do you already have a separate wood shop?

I'm assuming you already have all the basics like sewing machine oil.
Alcohol is a great cleaner for non-japanned parts. It dissolves old oil quickly. Just don't get it on your shellac. Mineral spirits is ok, it won't damage shellac but leaves an oily residue.
Shop rags.
Hand cleaner.
Fireproof container or other safe means of storing or disposing of oily rags.
A small luxury: A small shop vac and micro attachments for sucking dirt and lint out of your machines. Here's one example of the attachments: http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Vacuum-A.../dp/B000BSJCLY
Good for keeping your work area clean too.
The white pads are a good idea. Probably easy enough to make from muslin and batting. They'll help keep your bench clean and help prevent screws from rolling off the bench too.
Think about some sort of tool rack to keep all your tools organized and handy. Far better than digging around in the bottom of a tool box every time you need something.
I hope this helps.
Rodney

Thank you - MacyBaby and Rodney for putting things in list form. I have frequently used the little brushes Cari mentioned.
I have also used oxi-clean, evaporust, & citric acid for cleaning attachments. I have started using Brasso per SteveH's recommendation. I used to use simichrome for metal but have found a new use for it. I use it on the Singer button foot controllers to clean/polish them up and also found that it really improved the appearance of the the T&S cases. For the hand crank pinker with the godzilla finish I used "Turtle Wax Color Back Finish Restorer." I used it after cleaning the pinker about 5 years ago and it still looks good.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Zip lock bags and note pad for keeping parts and screws together with note indicating for what machine.

can somebody explain the pool noodle?

Rodney - we have an old farmstead - the wood working shop is in the big garage/shed. We darn near rebuilt our house, and have the tools to prove it. I'll do the dirty work somewhere else, but can use the workshop for finishing. It's eventually going to have an exhaust fan installed in there.

We picked up quite a bit at Wallmart (including the noodle) - sure was a strange collection of items LOL!!

Stopped at Cambells and picked up a small Pony clamp and some screwdrivers. Picked up a broom, dustpan and whisk, along with the portable AC unit at Menards. We'll be putting masonite over the top of the workbench as a replaceable surface.

Too bad SteveH is only going to be here for a short time - I could keep him cleaning machines for ages!

An air compressor is a great asset. We've been really happy with the Makita air compressor at the shop. I have a beat up portable Craftsman at home, that I got from the thrift store for $45. The one tool I wish I had at home is a pair of bending forks. Long handled screw drivers are best, because short ones handles are in the way. A Havel's seam ripper is awesome for cutting thread tangles. I use tweezers alot. And an small, extendable magnet comes in handy. A good bendable light is very helpful for those of us with older eyes.

extendable magnet - that sounds like a good idea. We already have one that gets used a lot in the shop and around worksites to pick up nails out of the dirt.

I'm sure there will be screws landing on teh floor and bouncing under the work bench . . .

An extendable magnet will work, but if you want to maximize your search time covering the territory of where a small screw can get to, you’re better off going with an old-style fly swatter with the wire handle and plastic flapper.

By placing flat rectangular ceramic magnets back-to-back all along the bottom edge of the plastic flapper, you can make a 4”-wide sweep with every probe. And, the flexibility of the plastic flapper will aid in getting into hard-to-reach areas. When you absolutely HAVE to find that little screw, you need all the advantage you can get.

Any thought of using the modified fly swatter to swat a fly will disappear shortly after the first time of using it to swat a pesky fly on your ankle. It will become a dedicated tool for one job only after that time....

CD in Oklahoma

A couple of sizes of split-blade screw starters will be handy.

I’ve learned to avoid magnetic screwdrivers for working on sewing machines. While a magnetized driver sounds like a good idea, I’ve dropped more screws using one than not. You can’t turn the magnetism on or off, and the blade tries to stick to everything it’s not supposed to stick to, knocking the screw loose.

If a screw must be held to the driver tip to be inserted, use a split-blade screw starter. Most sewing machine screws are either flat-blade screws, or combination flat-blade/Phillips head screws.

CD in Oklahoma

Just in case anyone is interested, to manage all of the screws, covers, and parts for each machine that I work on, I use the following containers:
Small Re-sealable Plastic Bags (used 2x2 and 2x3 parts bags)
Small Microwave Bowls (tapered, stackable)
Small Plastic Containers (old “Wipes” disposable containers)
Large Plastic Tubs (old hospital patient tubs found in yardsales)

When initially removing covers and parts from a sewing machine, it’s not always evident how long the covers or parts will remain off of the machine, so I handle each of them from the get-go as if it will be weeks before re-assembly. Multiple containers are available, empty, and free of lint, oil, and grease at the beginning.

An example would be, servicing a Singer 301A, beginning with top cover removal. The spool of thread is removed and placed in the small plastic (wipes) container. The two top cover screws are extracted and placed in a small MW bowl as they come out. The top cover is removed and placed in a large hospital tub. The screws are then removed from the MW bowl and placed in a small zip bag, which is then placed on top of the cover within the tub. The face cover is removed and placed in the large tub. The bottom cover thumbnut and felt washer are removed and placed in the small plastic (wipes) container. The bottom cover is cleaned of lint and lubricants, and placed in the large tub. The needle is removed and placed in the small (wipes) container. The slide plate, needle plate, bobbin, and bobbin case are removed and placed together in a small MW bowl. The upper tension assembly is removed and placed in a second MW bowl, stacked on top of the first MW bowl. Hook removal is common on a 301A to remove thread trapped in the hook, so it would be removed and placed in a third MW bowl, stacked on top of the other two MW bowls. Additional parts (if required) are removed using the same procedure.

The idea is, large parts (covers) need a large container to hold them, smaller one-of-a-kind parts (bottom thumbnut, needle) that shouldn’t be confused with one another can all be collected together in a smaller container, and small parts assemblies (upper tension) that will require subsequent disassembly are captured in a small MW bowl. Keeping the screws separated is most important, so bagging them along with covers, or corralling them in a small bowl tends to keep them from mingling.

If, at any point along the line, damaged parts are identified (requiring time for parts harvest or ordering), the containers can usually all be nestled in the large tub or under the arm of the machine to keep everything together. The machine and all of its separated parts can then be moved off of the bench to a storage location.

CD in Oklahoma

Nice thorough system CD.
I use things like plastic jars and butter containers for my small parts. I'm not nearly as well set up for working on machines as you. My shop also does duty as my woodworking shop so my workspace isn't dedicated to just machines.
Rodney

Check out the head lamps, they fit on your head and give direct light where you are looking battery powered but wonderful leaves hands free.

Thanks. I just get really ticked if I can’t find the right screws, or can’t remember what order I removed things when going in deep, especially if it’s been a while since the tear-down. The stacking MW bowls help with that. It narrows things down pretty much to screw lengths when similar screws of different lengths are involved, such as with some cover screws. Trial and error solves that problem.

The container type is not as important as how they’re used. Keeping screws together with what they mount is the key. If I lay a screw or any other part on my bench surface, I’ll figure out a way to knock it off onto the floor without even trying.

I use the work bench shown (an old industrial serger stand) mostly for sewing machines, but there will be an occasional vacuum cleaner or store display stand repair getting time on it too. Plus the jewelry, belt, and purse repairs at times. And, there are times when I have a machine disassembled on the bench, and an “emergency sewing machine repair” comes in that gets immediate attention on the same bench. Then too, when harvesting parts from an old machine, screws from one machine will usually look like the screws from the machine being repaired, so I want to make sure that I don’t mix parts. Every machine gets its own set of containers.

I also didn’t mention that I photograph every machine and its cords, control, case, bag, tote-sack, 5-gallon can, or whatever came in with it, before I ever start in on repairs. Then, I put a small string-tag with the sewing machine model number and owner’s name on each item before stowing those things away. It has proven well worth the time.

CD in Oklahoma

I keep a bunch of double ended magnets I swiped from the toy box - I think there are steel balls that are supposed to go with them but I put one end of the magnet on the throat plate and the screws on the other end and keep them together. Or I screw the screws back into the machine after I remove the part.

I like the magnetic bowls for mechanics. Ice trays are good too.

What a great thread. It appears as if we are moving to be closer to one of the sons. We are scheduled to close on the house in June but won't move for a few more months. Anyway Mr Stitchnripper insisted that I have my own room for sewing/quilting. He wanted a walk out basement which is unheard of where we live now. The new to us house has that with...a workroom and bench already there! Imagine my excitement. As most of you may know I am very much of a novice but I have managed to clean up and get running well several vintage machines with the help of all (or a lot) of you. I have a motor I want to expore which will be new territory for me after we move. So this thread is very helpful for me.

Blue painters tape and a marking pen. As I remove parts I label them with the tape and secure the screws with the tape to the item.
Another handy little tool is a ratcheting small screw driver. It is just right for removing needle plate screws that are stuck. Also needle nose pliers.

Mostly bring a sense of humor and fully enjoy the cleaning and fixing process!!

Ethel

May seem funny but one time I needed a set of calipers for measuring -now I have a set with my repair kit also a small wire brush.

I've been getting the workroom sort of organized. I had to spend most of the day getting the garden planted - and tomorrow I'll have visitors -

Workroom Tools
 

There never seems to be enough light. I recommend a light that goes on your head- WalMart.
Then a light on a stand with a flexible neck, followed by various pen lights or flashlights from yard sales. Seems some are always running out of batteries, so get some rechargable batteries with chargers. Now you can see what you're doing. It is dark in those black holes.
Donna

I have a pair of cuticle snips in my tool box. They are wonderful for tiny precision cutting. I have found them most useful when re-wiring a motor and needing to get wires stripped as close to the motor as possible. Normal strippers will not let me get in as close as I want. I use the nippers to carefully remove insulation a nip at a time.

Those little brushes you get to clean between braces come in handy every once in a while.

I like the cuticle nippers that look like little wire cutter or pliers.

A good big sledge hammer can be useful at times....

CD in Oklahoma

must have at least one for T&S

Cathy you are on your way to having a great shop. Thanks for getting all of us excited about working on our machines.