White 1563--sticky foot pedal, or motor issue?
 

Hi, new here! I have, um, a few antique and vintage machines loitering around the place....

Anyway, the machine I really use the most is a White 1563--I think it's a late 50s/early 60s model? I have spent way too much time on the internet trying to find out. Curse them for having a name that's also a regular English word! :) It's like a two-tone Chevy coupe, with those two glossy shades of teal, and I love it! I have a problem, though: it likes to take off running, and it's almost impossible to begin slowly--pressing the pedal down very slowly and cautiously produces an increasingly loud hum, but no movement, and then all of a sudden WHEE! It makes fiddly bits of sewing difficult to impossible.

So here's my question: I found a place to buy a new foot pedal that claims to be compatible with this machine, but I'm not sure if that will help, or if it's an issue with the capacitor or some other motor part? The new foot pedal is pretty cheap, but still a waste of money if it won't fix the problem.

Hi,

One possibility is a foot pedal (controller) issue. You can swap out a known good controller while using your White cord and test. Could also be a gummy motor or the machine itself in need of lube.

Remove belt if external or loosen stop motion screw and see how controller and motor act.

Jon

Oh, interesting, I didn't think about that! I will take the belt off and then at least I can make sure it's not in the machine itself. I still won't know if it's the motor or the foot pedal, though, unless I buy a new foot pedal, since I don't have any other ones I can use.

Anyone else have any thoughts on how to tell whether it's the motor or the foot pedal?

once it goes wheeee ,,, well it then slow down and run at say 2 rpm ( very slow ) ? because of it age, I'm guessing it has a wiper type pedal, take it apart and see if the wiper touch's every contact point..

you COULD alway use a multi meter and check the voltage out of the pedal, Thats easier said than done...

I find some of this is from a belt being to tight, I say that because of the buzzing sound. meaning the motor is getting power, but can not move

How did the motor and foot pedal act once the SM belt was removed?

Make sure your belt isn't too tight. That happened to me the other day when I was fixing up a Singer 185j and once I found the "sweet spot" in belt tightness the machine sewed so-o-o smoothly. Also, turn the pedal around the opposite way and see if that helps controlling it a little better.

It can also be because the belt is too loose... :)

Okay, so, I'm embarrassed to say I haven't figured out how to get the belt off. I don't want to break it, or tweak the pulley/shaft on the motor, but I can't see any easy way to loosen the tension so the belt will come off easily. Halp!

Also, unrelatedly: should I buy these decorative stitch cams? I don't really need them, but I kind of want them, since I know the machine is supposed to have them. I can't really think of anything I can't do without them--I don't do machine embroidery, really.

You will need to loosen the screw that is holding the motor onto the machine. Once it is loose you will be able to pull the motor upwards a little to allow the belt to come off and to put the new one on. When you put the new one on then you just will have to tweak the placement of the motor so that the belt is not too tight or too loose.

You will need to loosen the screw that is holding the motor onto the machine. Once it is loose you will be able to pull the motor upwards a little to allow the belt to come off and to put the new one on. When you put the new one on then you just will have to tweak the placement of the motor so that the belt is not too tight or too loose.

ETA: Did you need a manual? There is one on eBay for less than $9.00 for the model 1563:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-1563-S...-/260871719119

It looks like a cool sewing machine!!

Thanks, Cathy! I'm embarrassed to say I *have* the manual around here somewhere, but I didn't think to look at it. :rolleyes:

Okay, so. Sorry it took me a little while to get back to this. But I did move the motor (and I was even smart enough to mark the location before loosening the screw!) and get the belt off, and in my judgment, it performed about the same as when it's actually sewing. So I took a look at the foot pedal itself, and I can see some rust on the spring, and when I hold it next to my ear and move the pedal it's kind of skreeky-sounding (yes, that is the official term! :) ). However, there are absolutely no screws to take it apart to clean it--everything is riveted. I obviously don't want to spray WD-40 or anything around an electric component, so I don't know what to do--should I just give up and replace it even thought it does work, or is there some special way of lubricating/cleaning these so they work smoother?

Also, I'm still concerned it could be the motor because of the fact that there's a hum from the motor for several degrees of pressure on the pedal before it starts to move, with and without the belt attached.

Bring to SM repair guy or replace foot pedal. If foot pedal doesn't solve problem replace motor.

Good Luck

To loosen the belt find a big screw on an adjustable dodad attached to the motor. Loosen the screw and the motor will wiggle around. Mine sew best if the belt isn't tight - just snuggish. I had the reverse problem with a very similar machine - same color, etc, different badge. It started sewing at a nice speed then slowed down. It took a hammer to remove the cover to the foot pedal - no screws, just a slide off - HA! Not when it's been on 60 years. I looked it over, it appeared okay, just dusty, so I vacuumed it with the dusting brush of my vacuum. End of problem.

Edit after reading more posts: The hum may be a motor problem or the belt may be too tight. Try loosening it. Are you turning the handwheel toward you a bit to start the machine? Some oldies like this. My foot pedal appeared to riveted - it wasn't. The cover slides (and I use that term loosely) in grooves on either outer edge of the bottom. Enter the hammer.

I worked on a Pfaff at my church that screamed when I tried to sew after a good cleaning. The belt was old and stretched out and was too LOOSE. Dropped the motor to increase the tension and the motor quieted down. Now to find a new belt large enough.

But...it does the same thing with the belt totally off. I can sometimes get the motor to run slowly (with or without the belt on), but it's unreliable--the "breaking point" is razor thin, like a super touchy clutch in a car, so sometimes, it will be going slowly and then just stop without me really letting up on the pedal at all. And then it doesn't want to start slowly again, it only wants to go from 0-60. If you graphed its speed when I'm trying to achieve a slow, sustainable speed,, it would look something like:

.......___
....../.....\
...../..........\
..../...............\
.../...................--------___

if that makes sense?

No! But this is a great point. I will try it.


No kidding?
.
...although I should be careful, given that I've been known to damage things by being of the "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" school of thought in the past. :)

I have a daughter like that. I usually don't allow her to touch things needing repair unless I want some muscle. I made a mistake and let her look at the electric connection on the 301 I was having trouble with. It took me two days to straighten the tube she bent.

My Universal motor has been to visit my appliance repairman. The external wiring was bare and when I finally got the motor cover off, it was beyond my meager capabilities. The LQS wasn't interested, so off it went to the washer repairman. I know, I could have nearly bought a new motor for what I paid, but it wouldn't have been pretty turquoise.

Oh...so THAT is how to take those apart :D . I've often looked at them and wondered why they were made like that.

Check out #6 on Dave's blog: http://www.featherweight221.com/fwrx...85853155721159

One of my FW's was going really s-l-o-w and I was able to take it apart and adjust it the same way that he speaks about. That particular foot controller was the kind that unscrewed on the feet of it. After I adjusted it it worked great!!

I've been working pic's to show you whats going on, it's to late LOL therean easy fix, take less time than the drive to ye ol repair person ..


the slot

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/100_8961.jpg


the screw driver in the slot

tweak and bingo..
some do have screws
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/100_8962.jpg


ok inside, there maybe mounting screws on the corners or this one is under the wiper arm.. it's easier to remove the block from the housing ...

you see springs and the reviets, that wiper must touch each reviet as it pasts over ,, each one contorls a different speed, clean those and under the wiper ...

next at each reveit and on both side you'll see a hook that attaches the spring, remove the springs end and clean those, should a spring be screwed up on the end strecth it to fit and cut off the old end. if it's burnt in half you can use any spring thats even close to that size,, worst case cut the weak section of spring out twist there end together and install,,, put it all back together less the cover ,, hold upside down plugged in and power up the motor.

look for glowing at the hooks, sparks. SMOKE and do this a few minutes to feel for heat on the housing ,,it should not even get warm you get any of those, you still have a dirty contact at the hooks,,,

by doing this you'll get the picture on how these pedals work ,, should that block be broken glue it back together ...

don't worry your not going to get shocked,,,, I would not spill beer in it or stick my tounge on the brass contact,,, if you have a multi meter that will do Ac current you can use that to test it

you will be taking it apart and back together about 3 x's to get it right ..

these are two different pedals ,, this one shows how the reviets get so woren they will have to be silver solder and filed smooth,, the reviet closest to the wiper is all but gone, the next two are very bad,, this pedal works on the top half of it's speed control.

the other pic's are all the same pedal, it worked much like yours, the problem was at teh hooks plus someone in the past did there fix and streched the hell of there springs all at the end
yes spring lenght matters in a perfect world.... 90% of the time you are going to get some humming at a slow start up.. play with it and it will work ......................... better LOL
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/100_8959.jpg

http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/100_8958.jpg



http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/100_8965.jpg

Thanks so much for the pictures and the directions on how to do this. In the last picture everything looks so clean. What do you use to clean the brass rivets? Also I notice that the rivets in the two upper corners are missing in the last pic. Where did they go?

those reviets on the cover ,, there should be rubber feet/pads there .. to protect teh floor and keep the pedal from sliding away from you

I use a 800 grit wet/dry sand paper, if there super black and green then a heavy paper then polish with the fine,, use no oil.. 400 to 800 paper you can find at most any building hardware store , thats the black type paper , also I use that to clean and polish the machine heads yep right over the decals,, but kept it WET.. Thats known as color sanding same as done on custom paint on fine cars.. thats why they shine so much ..

I need a foot pedal as mine is missing on machine I purchased. And no cams. Where can I get these. ? I also have same question. I see the original pedal is same turquoise color . Where ones to purchase are black and range in prices

If you got it from a thrift store, go back and look around. Sometimes thrift stores sell the accessories separately putting them in a glass case. Sometimes the pedal gets separated and is with electronics, or they took the machine out of a table and the pedal is still in the table. Otherwise, you can check with thrift stores and see what they have, or ask the seller...

You can buy a pedal from sew classic or maybe a local sewing machine repairman. The question will be the type of power going to the motor, if a kenmore type plug or a special plug box. Because you want to make sure your motor works before you buy, as the pedal and motor cost more separately.

Cams easiest on an auction site, but you need to know what they look like as sellers often have no.clue.

It is probably the foot controller like xxxxxxxxx said. He called it a "wiper", because a brass arm moves across contacts fastened to Nichrome wires. The longer the circuit, the faster it runs. There may be broken wires. I have one just like that. It can't be repaired by most. Too expensive for what you're left with. The new solid state controllers are so much better and under $20 at Sew-Classic.com. I am replacing all of mine. They won't get hot or potentially cause a fire, shock or other. There is a do-it-your-self tutorial on their website. They are also 1/3 the weight of the old, clunky, ones.

The only cam you probably will want then is the zig zag, also available at Sew-Classic.com. You can always ad cams later, if you decide to venture out. They are readily available in sets on Ebay at fairly reasonable cost, or advertise on QB's "wanted" section.