Wiring?
 

How does one go about replacing the wiring? Are there any tutorials you can suggest.

what wiring?
a foot pedal? a machine? a lamp?
some are fairly straight forward & easy---others an electician would be a good idea.

Ditto what ckcowl said!!!

It's ok coming out of the motor but then everything else is connected with pig tails. The one going to the pedal is terrible as is the one that connects the light. It looks like someone used an old extension cord to replace the main one.

This is an easy rewiring job, you won't need a specialist at all. But if you can get into the motor go ahead and check the contacts. If the wiring is bad everywhere it's most likely bad inside the motor as well. Somewhere in the recesses of my mind there is a blow-up diagram and if I can find the url I'll pm to help take the motor apart.

Inside the motor, there may be brass/copper contacts that need soldering to the new wiring (some have this, some have pigtails) but you can do the soldering yourself no problem. Look up tutorials on youtube to learn how to solder and you'll be fine. I can tell you're mechanically inclined, you'll have no problem whatsoever.

And while you're in there, check the grease and replace if necessary, if it's a motor that uses grease I should add.

For the most part, you get new wiring, connectors, a good soldering iron or gun, good electrical solder, and a reasonable work area.

Lay out the old parts where you can see them, and cut your new wire a few inches longer than the existing wire. OR ~ cut the wires to your own needs. I have found that the average foot controller wire is about a foot shorter than I like it. So when I rewire one I add a foot.

Then carefully take each piece apart and draw yourself a schematic of how it's wired. This is especially important on the junction blocks and Singer motors. Some are wired simple, some are complicated. Even the simple ones can be easily miss-wired. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

Many times you'll find the connection ends are twisted and soldered into a ring then screwed down. You can do that, or solder in ring connectors. I prefer to use ring connectors when I can. First I crimp the bare connector, then I solder it. Probably over kill but it works.

I usually start with the foot controller. Then go to the light and then to the motor and lastly the connector block. That's just me, it can be done in any order.

The one thing I will emphasize is get good electrical solder. I usually buy it from Radio Shack. ( Hopefully they still stock it.) It's very high quality, melts quickly and makes very good connections.
Another tip is before you twist your wire for connections, or to put in connectors, wipe your fingers with Denatured Alcohol. This takes the body oil or any other oils off your fingers and makes it much much easier to solder the parts.

Inside the motor, be careful how you do the soldering. Sometimes there is a connection, other times there is just two ends of wire soldered together.

Learn to tie The Underwriters knot. There is really good instructions here:
http://vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/12/ho...or-part-6.html

Mater of fact read and study this blog about rewiring motors:
http://vssmb.blogspot.com/search/label/rewiring

Hope this helps a little.

Joe

Joe, what do you recommend to remove brown nicotine stain from the clear coat? I've cleaned as much nicotine off as I can safely get off, but the stain seems to have penetrated the clear coat. This is on a machine that appears to have never been used, is turquoise blue from the 50's era, a Belvedere Adler model 950-B.

Christine,

I honestly don't know. I clean my machines but I'm not anal about stubborn stains. I think I've actually gotten only one really clean, and it wasn't very dirty to start with.

I sometimes use diluted Simple Green sprayed on a cloth. But I've been very leery about that too.

Joe

You might try any product that is sold for cleaning plexiglass or auto lenses. I have used Meguiars PlastiX which is a clear plastic cleaner and polish. According to the bottle it removes cloudiness, yellowing, oxidation and fine scratches. I have used it on a couple of my 15 clones and it does shine them up. But, I have never had a nicotine stained machine to deal with.

It is also possible that the clear coat has simply yellowed with age.

Thanks Joe and Caroline,
I'll buy some PlastiX and try it on the back of the machine. I have 'some' experience with fire damage restoration so I used cleaners I knew were safe for wood and paint. I took every part I could possibly take off, including the motor and washed down the table too. The machine stank from the nicotine and now that she's had her bath she's purring away, smelling normal now.

The brownish haze on the turquoise is noticeable, and it's definitely penetrated the clear coat. Like she's been lying on too many Brazailian beaches in the sun. You should have seen it before I cleaned what I could, yuck!

When/if I find something that works I'll be sure to let you know! I have a feeling the PlastiX will work!