Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell
11-15-2012, 07:06 AM
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
Nancy,
You got it. If there are other brands that use the sintered bearing/ bushings they also rely on regular usage to keep the oil flowing.
BTW There are other 'self oiling' systems. I had a beautiful green Remington from the 50s that had a built in oil 'tank'. To keep it oiled you needed to push on the top on the tank occasionally and oil was delivered to all areas via tiny copper tubes that ran through the interior of the machine. Cool idea, except it was messy as oil leaked.
Cathy
You got it. If there are other brands that use the sintered bearing/ bushings they also rely on regular usage to keep the oil flowing.
BTW There are other 'self oiling' systems. I had a beautiful green Remington from the 50s that had a built in oil 'tank'. To keep it oiled you needed to push on the top on the tank occasionally and oil was delivered to all areas via tiny copper tubes that ran through the interior of the machine. Cool idea, except it was messy as oil leaked.
Cathy
11-15-2012, 07:28 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: las vegas nv.
Posts: 2,452
Originally Posted by grant15clone
Joe, I had the same problem with my 401. Make sure that the needle is in correctly. I reinserted the needle the wrong way three times in a row and mine was doing the same thing. I had the needle hole 45 degrees off. If that is not it check to make sure that the thread is going between the upper tension disks and not next to them. (I've done that too) And make sure that the tension disks are clean. There should be three disks. ~G~
11-15-2012, 07:29 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: las vegas nv.
Posts: 2,452
Originally Posted by Mizkaki
Nancy,
You got it. If there are other brands that use the sintered bearing/ bushings they also rely on regular usage to keep the oil flowing.
BTW There are other 'self oiling' systems. I had a beautiful green Remington from the 50s that had a built in oil 'tank'. To keep it oiled you needed to push on the top on the tank occasionally and oil was delivered to all areas via tiny copper tubes that ran through the interior of the machine. Cool idea, except it was messy as oil leaked.
Cathy
You got it. If there are other brands that use the sintered bearing/ bushings they also rely on regular usage to keep the oil flowing.
BTW There are other 'self oiling' systems. I had a beautiful green Remington from the 50s that had a built in oil 'tank'. To keep it oiled you needed to push on the top on the tank occasionally and oil was delivered to all areas via tiny copper tubes that ran through the interior of the machine. Cool idea, except it was messy as oil leaked.
Cathy
11-15-2012, 08:05 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Originally Posted by Mizkaki
Joe,
I believe that the other designations for these short needles are 'CC', '38Y1', '40F1', and 'Free Rotary'.
They are still available in limited sizes and quantities from the sewing machine wholesale/ supply houses.
If you want some let me know and I'll put them on my next order with Brewer.
Cathy
I believe that the other designations for these short needles are 'CC', '38Y1', '40F1', and 'Free Rotary'.
They are still available in limited sizes and quantities from the sewing machine wholesale/ supply houses.
If you want some let me know and I'll put them on my next order with Brewer.
Cathy
I'll have to make a note of these numbers. The only other number besides the Kenmore 49 that I'd come up with is the Boye 2½.
Are the needles you're talking about flat shank or round shank, and do you have a pic of them? I'm curious as to what the point to the eye looks like.
Joe
11-15-2012, 08:11 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fort Dodge, Iowa
Posts: 681
White machine
I was antique shopping in Savannah Georgia yesterday and found this White machine. The fly wheel still turns but does not move the needle up and down. They want $38.00 for it. If anyone is close and interested it can be found at 37th and Abercorn Antiques. 301 East 37th St. in Savannah. Here are pictures. Sorry Can't get pictures to download. Will try again in another posting to see if I can get it to work.
11-15-2012, 08:11 AM
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Originally Posted by grant15clone
Joe, it is a 7.9 mm Inside Diameter fuel line. [ATTACH=CONFIG]376668[/ATTACH] ~Grant~
Lets see, what's that in American ...... 3/8" I think. I used a piece of 3/8" hose to "try" and make one, but I couldn't get the hose over the shoulder of the shaft. What did you use to do that?
Joe
11-15-2012, 08:14 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fort Dodge, Iowa
Posts: 681
Pictures
Sorry, will not let me download pictures this morning. Just keep getting upload failed.
11-15-2012, 08:15 AM
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
Joe,
I'll take a picture tonight after work. I'll place a CC, 206x13, and15x1 in the pix. The CC, if I remember correctly is a flat shank with a normal point. I looks like the 15x1 but the timing length (top of shank to top of eye) is shorter.
cathy
I'll take a picture tonight after work. I'll place a CC, 206x13, and15x1 in the pix. The CC, if I remember correctly is a flat shank with a normal point. I looks like the 15x1 but the timing length (top of shank to top of eye) is shorter.
cathy
Originally Posted by J Miller
Cathy,
I'll have to make a note of these numbers. The only other number besides the Kenmore 49 that I'd come up with is the Boye 2½.
Are the needles you're talking about flat shank or round shank, and do you have a pic of them? I'm curious as to what the point to the eye looks like.
Joe
I'll have to make a note of these numbers. The only other number besides the Kenmore 49 that I'd come up with is the Boye 2½.
Are the needles you're talking about flat shank or round shank, and do you have a pic of them? I'm curious as to what the point to the eye looks like.
Joe
11-15-2012, 08:39 AM
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Palm Coast, Florida
Posts: 1,045
My son found a Singer sewing machine model #81-2 and we can't locate much info on it. Do any of you know anything about this machine? Any info would be much appreciated.
11-15-2012, 09:19 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Brookfield, IL
Posts: 862
Joe, I am not sure but luckily the hose I used had those marked on it. I just checked and it seems like it is a 5/16" fuel line hose. The important part is that it is 7.9 mm Inside Diameter.
It was not easy and was tricky and frustrating. I cut the replacement hose to size first. I put the hose on the bobbin winding post and pried from the opposite end with a small screwdriver enough to get the hose over the shoulder. I pushed the hose down using a pair of pliers enough to get it started. I took another small screwdriver and ran it between the hose and shoulder kind of like how they mount tires on a car rim while maintaining pressure on the hose with a socket from a socket set flipped up side down so the opening is down and away from the hose so the bobbin shaft could poke through it as the hose slid down. Once the hose was over the shoulder I used the pliers to work it down into position. This is all after I had removed the old rubber and cleaned up the surface of the shaft where the old rubber was. It did not need any adhesives as the rubber was good and tight on it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]376691[/ATTACH] I hope this helps. Good luck! ~G~
It was not easy and was tricky and frustrating. I cut the replacement hose to size first. I put the hose on the bobbin winding post and pried from the opposite end with a small screwdriver enough to get the hose over the shoulder. I pushed the hose down using a pair of pliers enough to get it started. I took another small screwdriver and ran it between the hose and shoulder kind of like how they mount tires on a car rim while maintaining pressure on the hose with a socket from a socket set flipped up side down so the opening is down and away from the hose so the bobbin shaft could poke through it as the hose slid down. Once the hose was over the shoulder I used the pliers to work it down into position. This is all after I had removed the old rubber and cleaned up the surface of the shaft where the old rubber was. It did not need any adhesives as the rubber was good and tight on it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]376691[/ATTACH] I hope this helps. Good luck! ~G~
Originally Posted by J Miller
Grant,
Lets see, what's that in American ...... 3/8" I think. I used a piece of 3/8" hose to "try" and make one, but I couldn't get the hose over the shoulder of the shaft. What did you use to do that?
Joe
Lets see, what's that in American ...... 3/8" I think. I used a piece of 3/8" hose to "try" and make one, but I couldn't get the hose over the shoulder of the shaft. What did you use to do that?
Joe
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