Wheeler & Wilson No. 9
08-30-2011, 04:35 AM
#41
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: In the Quilting Closet
Posts: 77
On May 11, 10, 6:35:55 Charlee posted:
We had some posts in the Vintage Machine thread about needles for the W&W 9 (and D-9), and the Singer 9W. The "original" needles for those machines are the same, and they're obsolete. Tougher to find than hen's teeth, those needles are!
I got an email from a yahoo group I belong to, and I was thrilled when Kevin Pinkerton suggested these solutions! I wrote and asked him for permission to share with everyone here, and he's graciously granted it, with a postscript that I'll also share! Nice guy, that Kevin!!
Original email follows:
As far as the 127x1 needles. I have found an alternative which works for me
and at least one other person. It is readily available and cheap. The
industrial round shank needle is smaller in diameter and will slide up in
the needle bar. Except for the shank being round instead of flat, all the
other dimensions are the same as the 127x1 needle. Being a round shank
needle, you will need to orient the needle yourself, but that can be done
fairly easily.
The needle goes by the following identifications:
Schmetx 34:22 1
MY1014B
SMx1014B
SY7256
SMX1014A
SM1014B
You can get this needle from Schemtz, Groz-Beckert and Organ.
The W&W 9 is a very nice machine and one of my favorites. If anyone has a
D-12, long bed version of this machine (head only) that they want to part
with, please let me know.
The follow up email with additional information after I asked his permission to share is this:
Hi Charlee,
I have no problems with sharing everything with everyone. But please add this note:
After inserting a new needle, always turn the wheel by hand slowly and watch for any needle obstruction where the needle might hit the rotary hook or bobbin.
The needle orientation is very important and I did not go into details on that but you can also add something for that as well. The scarf side of the needle, which is opposite of the thread groove side of the needle needs to be oriented exactly the same as it was for the 127x1. There is more to that, but it is easy to compare to get that right.
These new needles actually shrink in toward the center in all dimensions so there should NOT be a problem with the needle being positioned differently and then hitting the hook or bobbin. But I do not want to be responsible for a busted or damaged hook! The gap between the hook and the needle will increase a bit with these new needles, but unless it causes skipped stitches then it is not a problem.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin...YOU ROCK!!
We had some posts in the Vintage Machine thread about needles for the W&W 9 (and D-9), and the Singer 9W. The "original" needles for those machines are the same, and they're obsolete. Tougher to find than hen's teeth, those needles are!
I got an email from a yahoo group I belong to, and I was thrilled when Kevin Pinkerton suggested these solutions! I wrote and asked him for permission to share with everyone here, and he's graciously granted it, with a postscript that I'll also share! Nice guy, that Kevin!!
Original email follows:
As far as the 127x1 needles. I have found an alternative which works for me
and at least one other person. It is readily available and cheap. The
industrial round shank needle is smaller in diameter and will slide up in
the needle bar. Except for the shank being round instead of flat, all the
other dimensions are the same as the 127x1 needle. Being a round shank
needle, you will need to orient the needle yourself, but that can be done
fairly easily.
The needle goes by the following identifications:
Schmetx 34:22 1
MY1014B
SMx1014B
SY7256
SMX1014A
SM1014B
You can get this needle from Schemtz, Groz-Beckert and Organ.
The W&W 9 is a very nice machine and one of my favorites. If anyone has a
D-12, long bed version of this machine (head only) that they want to part
with, please let me know.
The follow up email with additional information after I asked his permission to share is this:
Hi Charlee,
I have no problems with sharing everything with everyone. But please add this note:
After inserting a new needle, always turn the wheel by hand slowly and watch for any needle obstruction where the needle might hit the rotary hook or bobbin.
The needle orientation is very important and I did not go into details on that but you can also add something for that as well. The scarf side of the needle, which is opposite of the thread groove side of the needle needs to be oriented exactly the same as it was for the 127x1. There is more to that, but it is easy to compare to get that right.
These new needles actually shrink in toward the center in all dimensions so there should NOT be a problem with the needle being positioned differently and then hitting the hook or bobbin. But I do not want to be responsible for a busted or damaged hook! The gap between the hook and the needle will increase a bit with these new needles, but unless it causes skipped stitches then it is not a problem.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin...YOU ROCK!!
08-31-2011, 04:03 AM
#42
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: In the Quilting Closet
Posts: 77
I bought four 10-needle packages of Schmetz MY1014B needles on eBay, as a substitute for the old 127x1 needles for my W&W No. 9. --10 needles each for 4 different weights of fabric. (The asking price was $8 per pack of 10; I offered $5 per pack which was accepted by the seller. I paid $70 for the W&W No. 9, and with shipping have invested almost $30 in these needles.)
They match the length of needles in the old Boye wooden tube that was in the drawer of the machine; however, the Boye needles (if that is what they really are) all have a flat side for no-brainer insertion.
I read someplace that the early W&W No. 9s like this one took a round shank needle, and later models took needles with one flat side. I'm still searching for the place on the internet where I read that. Makes sense, as the flat sided needle was probably a later patent.
Some of the needles in the Boye tube have writing on the shank, too small for me to read without magnification.
I'm still cleaning the cabinet on this W&W No. 9. I have ordered a new belt for the treadle, and will soon start carefully cleaning the head. (I've read in several places that the gold decals on the W&W No. 9 are particularly fragile.) Once clean, I'll insert a new Schmetz needle, see how it goes, and report back.
The trick will be to get Billy's "timing" right. I think he meant "orientation." See earlier post.
They match the length of needles in the old Boye wooden tube that was in the drawer of the machine; however, the Boye needles (if that is what they really are) all have a flat side for no-brainer insertion.
I read someplace that the early W&W No. 9s like this one took a round shank needle, and later models took needles with one flat side. I'm still searching for the place on the internet where I read that. Makes sense, as the flat sided needle was probably a later patent.
Some of the needles in the Boye tube have writing on the shank, too small for me to read without magnification.
I'm still cleaning the cabinet on this W&W No. 9. I have ordered a new belt for the treadle, and will soon start carefully cleaning the head. (I've read in several places that the gold decals on the W&W No. 9 are particularly fragile.) Once clean, I'll insert a new Schmetz needle, see how it goes, and report back.
The trick will be to get Billy's "timing" right. I think he meant "orientation." See earlier post.
Modern Schmetz MY1014B Needles
[ATTACH=CONFIG]249437[/ATTACH]
09-02-2011, 09:50 AM
#43
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: In the Quilting Closet
Posts: 77
This W&W No. 9 has a gold decal on the arch of the treadle base that matches the decal on the sewing machine. Neither has "BRIDGEPORT, CONN. USA" on the decals on later machines, including the W&W No. 9 "D-9"
The irons were so black on this old treadle machine that at first the decal on the base did not even show up -- not a glint. But when I started rubbing with GoJo and a cotton ball, the decal became apparent. I stopped cleaning when I started getting diminishing results.
The cabinet was cleaned with Murphy's Oil Soap and 0000 steel wool. Howard Restor-A-Finish was applied, sometimes with the steel wool. I ironed the veneer a bit. Then a finishing coat of Howard Feed-N-Wax was applied. I still have the coffin top to restore, and I am starting to tackle the machine head --slowly and carefully.
The irons were so black on this old treadle machine that at first the decal on the base did not even show up -- not a glint. But when I started rubbing with GoJo and a cotton ball, the decal became apparent. I stopped cleaning when I started getting diminishing results.
The cabinet was cleaned with Murphy's Oil Soap and 0000 steel wool. Howard Restor-A-Finish was applied, sometimes with the steel wool. I ironed the veneer a bit. Then a finishing coat of Howard Feed-N-Wax was applied. I still have the coffin top to restore, and I am starting to tackle the machine head --slowly and carefully.
The cleaned cabinet
[ATTACH=CONFIG]250418[/ATTACH]
The lower decal magically appeared.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]250422[/ATTACH]
03-04-2012, 11:51 AM
#45
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
Very nice ...I have just taken out of the barn a W & W ,W- 9....it was left by a renter and in the barn for 16 years I have cleaner it up and now I need to find needles. The ones in the draw were to big, and the ones mom have are to small. mine are flat and moms are round. I am going to keep looking for something that will fit....I will try the MY1014B.................Diane
08-03-2012, 10:13 PM
#46
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millville, NJ
Posts: 1,835
Originally Posted by FirstQuilt
Here's the new-to-me Wheeler & Wilson No. 9 with serial number 80018. I found the glass presser foot in the drawer, gave it a quick polish and put it on. I'm going to go slowly with the cleaning, and once I'm finished, I'm making a quilt with it. It's my dream machine.
I'd like to hear about any experiences you might have with this machine!
I'd like to hear about any experiences you might have with this machine!
Wheeler & Wilson No. 9 (#80018)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]246245[/ATTACH]
Glass Presser Foot, patent date 1861
[ATTACH=CONFIG]246246[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]246245[/ATTACH]
Glass Presser Foot, patent date 1861
[ATTACH=CONFIG]246246[/ATTACH]
Jon
03-24-2013, 01:09 AM
#47
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
I just wanted to say that I also have a newly aquired w&w9 but mine is in what they call a drawing room cabinet, I sort of collect sewing machines, some are parts machines, tho I have a couple of treadles that look like yours does. I really haven't had enough time yet to explore the inside of the cabinet, I got the machine raised up for useability & I thought thats all I needed todo besides put the belt on it but the treadle is really stiff so I thought, i'll put it back down inside its cabinet, & it wouldn't play nice. so now its gona stay there till I can down on my hands & knees & see what makes it tick. mine has a last listed patent date of 1890 serial #94012 i think it was. Anyway if by chance you come across any info about a drawing room cabinet for one of these machines I'd greatly appeciate if you could pass it on to me. I'd like to restore it if posible. my e-mail address is [email protected] & yours looks really cool. I'd really enjoy seeing your first quilt. my other treadles are blocked into unusable space, or being used as a place to set a printer up on, with my internet dsl modem & what not on it shame on me. and thank you for any help or info you can provide, good luck with your quilt
03-24-2013, 08:00 AM
#48
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
chicnhok,
Welcome to the Quilting Board forum.
Open your cabinet, raise that machine and get some Tri-Flow oil. Then oil it well. Oil the bearing parts of the treadle too.
That will reduce the friction greatly.
I've got two of the Singer 9W-7s and when cleaned and oiled they are very easy to turn. No effort at all.
Tri-Flow is available at Sew-Classic parts and most or many bicycle shops.
Clean the body with sewing machine oil and soft clothes or cottons balls to avoid damaging what's left of the machines finish and decals.
Joe
Welcome to the Quilting Board forum.
Open your cabinet, raise that machine and get some Tri-Flow oil. Then oil it well. Oil the bearing parts of the treadle too.
That will reduce the friction greatly.
I've got two of the Singer 9W-7s and when cleaned and oiled they are very easy to turn. No effort at all.
Tri-Flow is available at Sew-Classic parts and most or many bicycle shops.
Clean the body with sewing machine oil and soft clothes or cottons balls to avoid damaging what's left of the machines finish and decals.
Joe
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