1/4 seam vs scant seam
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 5,570
Consistency is the key. Sew a sample with scraps to make sure you are coming out to the correct finnished size. Try several. Label each one of your samples with precise notes so that you know what really works for you. Pressing is very important IMO. I press the piece as sewn first, then I press my seams open. To me, it reduces bulk as well as makes lining up next piece much easier. Your quilt will not fall apart in the wash even with these tiny seams! Typically everything overlaps so that all pieces are 'locked' into place. Even with open seams. It may be that you need to cut a smidge larger and trim for some or all blocks. Whatever works until you get there.
#12
Originally Posted by NJ Quilter
Consistency is the key. Sew a sample with scraps to make sure you are coming out to the correct finnished size. Try several. Label each one of your samples with precise notes so that you know what really works for you. Pressing is very important IMO. I press the piece as sewn first, then I press my seams open. To me, it reduces bulk as well as makes lining up next piece much easier. Your quilt will not fall apart in the wash even with these tiny seams! Typically everything overlaps so that all pieces are 'locked' into place. Even with open seams. It may be that you need to cut a smidge larger and trim for some or all blocks. Whatever works until you get there.
#14
Originally Posted by NJ Quilter
To me, fraying would be an indication of the fabric itself breaking down versus the actual construction of the quilt.
#15
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 5,570
Originally Posted by fayzer
Originally Posted by NJ Quilter
To me, fraying would be an indication of the fabric itself breaking down versus the actual construction of the quilt.
#16
Originally Posted by NJ Quilter
Originally Posted by fayzer
Originally Posted by NJ Quilter
To me, fraying would be an indication of the fabric itself breaking down versus the actual construction of the quilt.
#17
There are patterns that you absolutely need to 1/4 in order for the pattern to work. Mary Ellen Hopkins books/patterns she has the PPM as she calls it (private, personal measurement) and as long as your sewing is consistent throughtout the construction of the quilt, these patterns will work. This is not true with all quilt patterns. My opinion, if you need to learn to sew consistent to have your quilts go together, might as well learn to sew a scant 1/4 inch and be any to piece it all. Still working on that skill.
#18
Originally Posted by PiecesinMn
There are patterns that you absolutely need to 1/4 in order for the pattern to work. Mary Ellen Hopkins books/patterns she has the PPM as she calls it (private, personal measurement) and as long as your sewing is consistent throughtout the construction of the quilt, these patterns will work. This is not true with all quilt patterns. My opinion, if you need to learn to sew consistent to have your quilts go together, might as well learn to sew a scant 1/4 inch and be any to piece it all. Still working on that skill.
#19
Love her. Quite a few number of years ago she was at a local quilt shop for a lecture kind of thing. She was absolutely wonderful. If she was still doing things like that in my area, I would go in a heartbeat.
Isn't Mary Ellen a hoot? I sure enjoyed her episodes on Simply Quilts.
Originally Posted by TonnieLoree
Originally Posted by PiecesinMn
There are patterns that you absolutely need to 1/4 in order for the pattern to work. Mary Ellen Hopkins books/patterns she has the PPM as she calls it (private, personal measurement) and as long as your sewing is consistent throughtout the construction of the quilt, these patterns will work. This is not true with all quilt patterns. My opinion, if you need to learn to sew consistent to have your quilts go together, might as well learn to sew a scant 1/4 inch and be any to piece it all. Still working on that skill.
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