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Thread: Need more binding help - Equal on both sides?

  1. #1
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    I've been perfecting my machine binding technique. It is definitely getting better. I would like to have my binding equal on both sides. Is this (the uneven widths) just an issue with machine binding? How do I do this?

    Angry Chicken has a vlog tutorial on making a binding where the seam binding is pressed unevenly to give a little bit more width on the back. Here is the link if anyone cares to view it. Would this method work on a regular quilt?

    http://angrychicken.typepad.com/angr...ape-tutor.html

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Super Member PaperPrincess's Avatar
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    Yes, that's how I do mine. It's a bit wider on the back, so when I stitch in the ditch from the front, I have a good chance of catching the binding. I know a lot of folks like to hand stitch the binding, but I think it's more durable if it's machine stitched.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaperPrincess
    Yes, that's how I do mine. It's a bit wider on the back, so when I stitch in the ditch from the front, I have a good chance of catching the binding. I know a lot of folks like to hand stitch the binding, but I think it's more durable if it's machine stitched.
    How wide do you usually cut your strips? I've tried every width from 3.00" down to 2.25". Nothing seems to work the way I want it to.

  4. #4
    Super Member PaperPrincess's Avatar
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    I cut them 2 1/4". I fold in the center & press, so the binding 1 1/8". I match the raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt, and put the binding on the front of the quilt. I stitch a 1/4" seam with a walking foot. Then I press 3 times: Press just to set the seam. Press the seam open ( press binding towards the edge) then I fold the binding to the back and press again. It sounds like it takes a lot of time, but it goes pretty quickly. I use steam and usually don't have to pin. Then I stitch in the ditch from the front, stitching in the seam where the binding was attached. If you go to this post of some throws I made, there are some close ups of the bindings.
    http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-103513-1.htm
    There is a tiny 'flange' on the back, which you may find objectionable. Sometimes I use a blanket stitch on the front. This holds it down. I did this on the purple one. Does this info help?

  5. #5
    Super Member katier825's Avatar
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    That was interesting. I always wondered why the purchased binding was folded offset like that.

    I'm one of those that likes the look of the binding when handsewn to the back.

    I cut my strips 2-1/2" wide, seam diagonally, starch & press in half. Then when I sew it, I sew about 5/16" seam (between 1/4 & 3/8). It's the perfect width when turned to the back. I usually use Warm & Natural batting, so take that thickness into account when trying other battings. It was trial and error for me to come up with that seam allowance. It works great for me. :)

  6. #6
    Google Goddess craftybear's Avatar
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    thanks for the tip

    Quote Originally Posted by PaperPrincess
    I cut them 2 1/4". I fold in the center & press, so the binding 1 1/8". I match the raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt, and put the binding on the front of the quilt. I stitch a 1/4" seam with a walking foot. Then I press 3 times: Press just to set the seam. Press the seam open ( press binding towards the edge) then I fold the binding to the back and press again. It sounds like it takes a lot of time, but it goes pretty quickly. I use steam and usually don't have to pin. Then I stitch in the ditch from the front, stitching in the seam where the binding was attached. If you go to this post of some throws I made, there are some close ups of the bindings.
    http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-103513-1.htm
    There is a tiny 'flange' on the back, which you may find objectionable. Sometimes I use a blanket stitch on the front. This holds it down. I did this on the purple one. Does this info help?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaperPrincess
    I cut them 2 1/4". I fold in the center & press, so the binding 1 1/8". I match the raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt, and put the binding on the front of the quilt. I stitch a 1/4" seam with a walking foot. Then I press 3 times: Press just to set the seam. Press the seam open ( press binding towards the edge) then I fold the binding to the back and press again. It sounds like it takes a lot of time, but it goes pretty quickly. I use steam and usually don't have to pin. Then I stitch in the ditch from the front, stitching in the seam where the binding was attached. If you go to this post of some throws I made, there are some close ups of the bindings.
    http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-103513-1.htm
    There is a tiny 'flange' on the back, which you may find objectionable. Sometimes I use a blanket stitch on the front. This holds it down. I did this on the purple one. Does this info help?
    Those throws were beautiful! I love batiks against black. I have been stitching to the back and then on the front but I might try it the reverse this time. Thanks for the tips.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by katier825
    That was interesting. I always wondered why the purchased binding was folded offset like that.

    I'm one of those that likes the look of the binding when handsewn to the back.

    I cut my strips 2-1/2" wide, seam diagonally, starch & press in half. Then when I sew it, I sew about 5/16" seam (between 1/4 & 3/8). It's the perfect width when turned to the back. I usually use Warm & Natural batting, so take that thickness into account when trying other battings. It was trial and error for me to come up with that seam allowance. It works great for me. :)
    I've always done 1/4" and I think that might be some of my issue as well. I'm going to try some different seam widths.

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