I put on binding on a quilt and after washing a little piece of the quilt top pulled away. I really don't want to take off the binding and piece the border. It just won't look peachy.

My question/solution is would it be okay to put another binding over the existing binding making the new binding bigger? The original binding started out with a 2 1/4 inch strip. If I wanted a 1 inch binding on the front, how big to make the strip? What is the distance to sew on the new binding? And how far to stop sewing at the corner to get a perfect miter corner.

Last night I lost sleep on this quilt and so far tonight is going the same way. I do not want to have a repeat from last night after only getting two hours of sleep. At least I finished the quilt, well almost except for the flaws that developed after washing.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

U tube has a greAt tute on bindings!

Can't you just hand sew that part back? Is it frayed?
Here's a cutting chart for different widths of binding.
http://www.quilting-tidbits.com/quilt-binding.html
I followed Amma's tutorial and use Elmers School glue for all my bindings
with my own adaptation. Works like a charm. After sewing the binding to the
top I fold it to the back and pin, pin, pin (making make sure there is enough
to grab it from the front, specially the corners - put a pin through to see
where the needle will hit or not) then go with Elmers glue all around and
iron and remove all the pins. I pin and glue one side at a time so I don't get
poked with pins. Then stitch in the ditch from the front.
The prep may sounds like a lot of work but it's worth it. :-D

not sure how to resolve your current problem but this is a really good binding tute on all people quilt.

http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/videos/

choose Better Binding: Mitered Corners & Invisible Joins

gives measurements and how-to on all binding

put a wider one over the top

a 2 1/2" binding will give you a 3/4" on each side (in theory)- if you want an inch you would need to cut your binding strips 3" wide (folded in half = 1 1/2, sewn 1/4" seam, folded to back and sewn down)
if using a 1/4" seam to attach the binding you stop EXACTLY at the 1/4" (dot) at the corner- stop, fold binding straight up, fold, then straight down- start sewing at the 1/4" mark and continue to next corner- Perfect miters. the place to stop corresponds with the width of the stitching line. you can adjust your seams to what ever works for you-i use a wider binding on heavier or flannel quilts and use a 1/2" seam instead of 1/4" just to give it more to hang on to.

My tip is never trim the quilt until the binding is all sewn on.....I always use a 21/2" strip for big quilts and 21/4 for small project pieces.

I think a bigger binding would work. I use the French on were you cut the strip 2 1/2 times the binding width. then you fold it in half, then work with the material double. I stay-stitch the quilt edge before I sew on the binding to give it some oomph.
I like that idea someone had to glue then SITD from front! as I now have 4 placemats and quilt all piled up ready for hand sewing the bindings :(
Good luck - hope bigger binding doesn't affect border too much.
Sue

this is how i do mine also..

i use 2.5" binding strips.
i am not sure if you can go over what you already have done. wouldn't that be to thick?

let us know what you end up doing..it is a learning thing for all of us.
My hands just can't manage a hand sewn back..i have to machine sew it on.

I sew on the front binding, then I use stitch witchery and iron the back down-making sure it covers the stitching from the front binding and then SID from the front. I make a lot less mistakes this way!