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Thread: Binding Question: I need help

  1. #1
    Super Member chuckbere15's Avatar
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    I put on binding on a quilt and after washing a little piece of the quilt top pulled away. I really don't want to take off the binding and piece the border. It just won't look peachy.

    My question/solution is would it be okay to put another binding over the existing binding making the new binding bigger? The original binding started out with a 2 1/4 inch strip. If I wanted a 1 inch binding on the front, how big to make the strip? What is the distance to sew on the new binding? And how far to stop sewing at the corner to get a perfect miter corner.

    Last night I lost sleep on this quilt and so far tonight is going the same way. I do not want to have a repeat from last night after only getting two hours of sleep. At least I finished the quilt, well almost except for the flaws that developed after washing.

    Your help is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    U tube has a greAt tute on bindings!

  3. #3
    Super Member EasyPeezy's Avatar
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    Can't you just hand sew that part back? Is it frayed?
    Here's a cutting chart for different widths of binding.
    http://www.quilting-tidbits.com/quilt-binding.html
    I followed Amma's tutorial and use Elmers School glue for all my bindings
    with my own adaptation. Works like a charm. After sewing the binding to the
    top I fold it to the back and pin, pin, pin (making make sure there is enough
    to grab it from the front, specially the corners - put a pin through to see
    where the needle will hit or not) then go with Elmers glue all around and
    iron and remove all the pins. I pin and glue one side at a time so I don't get
    poked with pins. Then stitch in the ditch from the front.
    The prep may sounds like a lot of work but it's worth it. :-D

  4. #4
    Senior Member pdcakm's Avatar
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    not sure how to resolve your current problem but this is a really good binding tute on all people quilt.

    http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/videos/

    choose Better Binding: Mitered Corners & Invisible Joins

    gives measurements and how-to on all binding

  5. #5
    Super Member jemma's Avatar
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    put a wider one over the top

  6. #6
    Power Poster ckcowl's Avatar
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    a 2 1/2" binding will give you a 3/4" on each side (in theory)- if you want an inch you would need to cut your binding strips 3" wide (folded in half = 1 1/2, sewn 1/4" seam, folded to back and sewn down)
    if using a 1/4" seam to attach the binding you stop EXACTLY at the 1/4" (dot) at the corner- stop, fold binding straight up, fold, then straight down- start sewing at the 1/4" mark and continue to next corner- Perfect miters. the place to stop corresponds with the width of the stitching line. you can adjust your seams to what ever works for you-i use a wider binding on heavier or flannel quilts and use a 1/2" seam instead of 1/4" just to give it more to hang on to.

  7. #7
    Super Member Mary O's Avatar
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    My tip is never trim the quilt until the binding is all sewn on.....I always use a 21/2" strip for big quilts and 21/4 for small project pieces.

  8. #8
    Super Member SueSew's Avatar
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    I think a bigger binding would work. I use the French on were you cut the strip 2 1/2 times the binding width. then you fold it in half, then work with the material double. I stay-stitch the quilt edge before I sew on the binding to give it some oomph.
    I like that idea someone had to glue then SITD from front! as I now have 4 placemats and quilt all piled up ready for hand sewing the bindings :(
    Good luck - hope bigger binding doesn't affect border too much.
    Sue

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by EasyPeezy
    Can't you just hand sew that part back? Is it frayed?
    Here's a cutting chart for different widths of binding.
    http://www.quilting-tidbits.com/quilt-binding.html
    I followed Amma's tutorial and use Elmers School glue for all my bindings
    with my own adaptation. Works like a charm. After sewing the binding to the
    top I fold it to the back and pin, pin, pin (making make sure there is enough
    to grab it from the front, specially the corners - put a pin through to see
    where the needle will hit or not) then go with Elmers glue all around and
    iron and remove all the pins. I pin and glue one side at a time so I don't get
    poked with pins. Then stitch in the ditch from the front.
    The prep may sounds like a lot of work but it's worth it. :-D
    this is how i do mine also..

    i use 2.5" binding strips.
    i am not sure if you can go over what you already have done. wouldn't that be to thick?

    let us know what you end up doing..it is a learning thing for all of us.
    My hands just can't manage a hand sewn back..i have to machine sew it on.

  10. #10
    Super Member LoriEl's Avatar
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    I sew on the front binding, then I use stitch witchery and iron the back down-making sure it covers the stitching from the front binding and then SID from the front. I make a lot less mistakes this way!

  11. #11
    Super Member carolaug's Avatar
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    Just hand sew it...that happen to me also when I handed sewed my son's. If you decide you don't want to keep that binding. Just use the seamripper and begin over .I machine sew bindings only now. So much easier. Also make sure you wash the material first. Other wise it does shink and pulls...I also sew the outside of my quilts before binding it. and when i sew on a border I sew it twice. After working hard on quilts I am learning the the extra work is worh it.

  12. #12
    Senior Member CompulsiveQuilter's Avatar
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    There are lots of solutions here, but I don't think you could ever make a binding too thick - it gets the most wear and the thicker the better! Having double bindings - why not? You may be onto something.

  13. #13
    MTS
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckbere15
    My question/solution is would it be okay to put another binding over the existing binding making the new binding bigger? The original binding started out with a 2 1/4 inch strip. If I wanted a 1 inch binding on the front, how big to make the strip? What is the distance to sew on the new binding? And how far to stop sewing at the corner to get a perfect miter corner.
    I can't comment on your current binding problem without seeing a picture ;-) , but to answer your question from a mathematical standpoint....

    You would cut your binding strips 6.25" (or maybe even 6.5" if you're keeping the old binding on). Folding the strips in half would give you 3.125". You would sew the bindings to the front 1" from the edge of the quilt, turn the binding to the back and sew it down as you normally would.

    For the mitered corners, you would stop 1" from the edge of the quilt (it will always be the same measurement as whatever the finished binding width is on the side you're sewing). You will also get a lovely miter on the back as well that will be the same as the front.

    You could have, if you wanted to, cut the strips narrower, and had a larger binding on the front then in the back (or visa versa), but you didn't say you wanted to do that. Again, the math is pretty simple - just add the binding widths you want on the front and back, and triple it plus 1/4" (to 1/2") to accommodate the folding and turn to the back of the quilt. It also makes the binding on the back a tad wider, if you wanted to sew in down by machine from the front.

    Now, with all that said, that's a big chunk of material around all edges. It can feel AND look very heavy (especially if you're not removing the previous binding).
    Plus, depending on your design, a 1" binding can chop of a whole mess of star points. I'm not sure that it's the best choice.

    I'm sure not sure why you don't want to remove the current binding and resew it on. Pics would help. I've done this many times when I went back and redid my earlier pathetic attempts - it's really not that big of a deal. A bit time consuming but what isn't. ;-)

    Good luck!

  14. #14
    Power Poster amma's Avatar
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    If you add a patch to that area, and then add others around the edges it would look planned :wink:

    If you want to make the binding wider, take a scrap 6 1/2" wide, fold it, press and then pin baste it to the quilt in the same manner that you would sew it. See if that is what you want, you can trim it down until you get it where you want it.

    As to where you stop sewing, if you use a 1/4" seam, you stop 1/4" from the ends.
    If you use a 1/2" seam, you would stop 1/2" from the end :D:D:D

  15. #15
    Super Member chuckbere15's Avatar
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    I really appreciate the help. It has been most educating.

    Some question why I could not remove and reattach, at the very end on the stitch line, some of the fabric pulled away. I did not want to remove the original as I use 1.5mm stitch length and that would be a bear to try and remove. This was my bad as when I squared up the quilt with the batting, backing and top there was a little of the batting and backing sticking out farther than the top. Next time I will trim so all three layers are the same. This was the first time that I applied actual binding to a quilt as I usually just roll the backing onto the front.

    I did apply the second wider binding over the existing binding. It turned out great. If you did not know that there were two bindings on the quilt you would just think that the binding is stuffed to the gills.

    Again, I can not thank everyone with their knowledge and ideas on how to resolve this dilemma. It work!!! And the quilt is finished. Well almost, I have to remove the loose threads and put my label on.

    Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!!

  16. #16
    Super Member carolaug's Avatar
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    Don't forget to post a picture!

  17. #17
    Super Member chuckbere15's Avatar
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    Click the link below to see pictures of the finished quilt.

    http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-113238-1.htm#2939603

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