Satin Stitch Blues
#1
Satin Stitch Blues
I could use some advice on how to do satin stich without any puckering. Would like to make a Sunbonnet Sue for my daughter-in-law from a kit she gave me.
Is it usual for the hats, arms and feet to all be the same color as is the case with this kit?
Thanks for your help, Bj
Is it usual for the hats, arms and feet to all be the same color as is the case with this kit?
Thanks for your help, Bj
#2
I always iron freezer paper to the back of my blocks before I satin stitch them. This will stablize them so you don't get any puckers. When you're finished, just peel the paper off the back and you're good to go. I've done it this way for years.
#3
Power Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
A lightweight fusible stabilizer will help. I have never liked satin stitched appliques. They tend to be so stiff, heavy and (unforgiving) I've had to do some that way a time or two and have found a Good stabilizer makes a huge difference in outcome.
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The middle of an IL cornfield
Posts: 7,014
I starch my background blocks until they are super stiff . . . almost like light weight cardstock. Nothing ever puckers then.
As for what color the pieces of Sue should be, I think pretty much anything goes.
As for what color the pieces of Sue should be, I think pretty much anything goes.
#8
I have used satin stitch with some of my appliques...I use coffee filters to stabilize with. The only problem is they are round but I just add more as I go. when I tear off I reuse the big pieces...cheap too. I have had some good success with loosening my stitch width also...not a lot, just helps with that stiffness. I also now use only the satin stitch option on my machine, not zigzag.
Hope that helps a little
Hope that helps a little
#9
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
Stabilizing the background fabric is the key to satin stitching without puckers. Also, loosen the top tension so that the top thread shows on the wrong side with every stitch.
I have found that heavily starching the background fabric before cutting provides good stability. I use a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, "paint" this solution on the yardage using a large wall painting brush, wait a couple of minutes to make sure that the starch solution has had a chance to penetrate the fibers, toss the yardage in the dryer, then iron with steam. When I cut the background squares, I make then an inch or two larger than the finished size (in case there is any takeup from the machine applique) and cut them to perfect size after the applique is done.
There are many different variations of Sunbonnet Sue. Often hats and dresses match, but not always. If you don't like the matchy-matchy of the kit, you can swap hats/arms/legs among the blocks or cut different ones from your own fabric.
I have found that heavily starching the background fabric before cutting provides good stability. I use a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, "paint" this solution on the yardage using a large wall painting brush, wait a couple of minutes to make sure that the starch solution has had a chance to penetrate the fibers, toss the yardage in the dryer, then iron with steam. When I cut the background squares, I make then an inch or two larger than the finished size (in case there is any takeup from the machine applique) and cut them to perfect size after the applique is done.
There are many different variations of Sunbonnet Sue. Often hats and dresses match, but not always. If you don't like the matchy-matchy of the kit, you can swap hats/arms/legs among the blocks or cut different ones from your own fabric.
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