"Honey" is HOME!!
09-22-2010, 10:15 PM
#32
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,743
Charlee, what a great birthday present. I am not much help. I remember reading somewhere about this problem. But do I remember if it was here or the Singer group on Yahoo? NO! But it is not normal. Mine had the opposite problem, then I looked and the wiring needs to be fixed. Lucky I didn't spark up a storm. I know you will love Honey.
09-23-2010, 01:49 PM
#33
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 6,442
Aardie, thanks for that info! I checked (and loosened) the belt, but this problem seems to be in the foot controler...
Having taken it apart, the points do not make contact until the button is fully depressed, and then once they make contact, it's full speed ahead.
:(
Having taken it apart, the points do not make contact until the button is fully depressed, and then once they make contact, it's full speed ahead.
:(
09-23-2010, 03:42 PM
#35
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 150
Charlee,
Not to fear. We can try to fix that as well. If you have the button controller apart, post a photo of the electrical block.
There is a long screw running from one end to the other which holds something that gets pulled when you push the button down, or actuate the mechanism (big word time).
Graham Forsdyke (check spelling) taught me this next bit.
The thing that gets pulled is the bridge and it pulls up to the two contacts.
On the other end, where the head of that long screw is, you have another part of the electrical flow. Depending on your model of controller, it could remind you of a see-saw or teeter-totter made of copper and topped by another piece of something black made the same shape (like an insulation of some kind).
Under the teeter-totter (the name is my idea :-) ) are two carbon type contact points.
How close the teeter-totter is to those carbon contacts at the neutral (or off position) helps determine whether you will get a slow start and slow stitch. It also is responsible for a hot controller when it should be neutral, or OFF and isn't!
How far along the long screw the bridge is at neutral (off position) also determines when the motor will have enough juice to start turning.
These two have to be set in relationship to one another.
I need to see the inside of yours to make an adjustment suggestion.
Clear as mud?
One thing to remember: NEVER leave the machine or the controller plugged in when you are not actually sitting there and working with it. At this point, the controller may be very dangerous regarding heat. When properly adjusted, they are completely safe.
And we are not sure yet whether your controller is damaged or not. Probably not, but we just don't know yet.
Charlee, you can order replacement or rebuilt controllers, it would be nice to see if you need to first.
Aardie.
Not to fear. We can try to fix that as well. If you have the button controller apart, post a photo of the electrical block.
There is a long screw running from one end to the other which holds something that gets pulled when you push the button down, or actuate the mechanism (big word time).
Graham Forsdyke (check spelling) taught me this next bit.
The thing that gets pulled is the bridge and it pulls up to the two contacts.
On the other end, where the head of that long screw is, you have another part of the electrical flow. Depending on your model of controller, it could remind you of a see-saw or teeter-totter made of copper and topped by another piece of something black made the same shape (like an insulation of some kind).
Under the teeter-totter (the name is my idea :-) ) are two carbon type contact points.
How close the teeter-totter is to those carbon contacts at the neutral (or off position) helps determine whether you will get a slow start and slow stitch. It also is responsible for a hot controller when it should be neutral, or OFF and isn't!
How far along the long screw the bridge is at neutral (off position) also determines when the motor will have enough juice to start turning.
These two have to be set in relationship to one another.
I need to see the inside of yours to make an adjustment suggestion.
Clear as mud?
One thing to remember: NEVER leave the machine or the controller plugged in when you are not actually sitting there and working with it. At this point, the controller may be very dangerous regarding heat. When properly adjusted, they are completely safe.
And we are not sure yet whether your controller is damaged or not. Probably not, but we just don't know yet.
Charlee, you can order replacement or rebuilt controllers, it would be nice to see if you need to first.
Aardie.
09-23-2010, 04:01 PM
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 150
Charlee,
I was looking for pictures of an older controller to post for your reference, but I think I ditched them when I was done.
There are a number of suppliers for 221 parts.
We know Billy has setup shop and may already have access to rebuilt controllers.
Graham has taught me what I have learned. He is at:
http://www.singer-featherweight.com
Jenny at http://shop.SEW-CLASSIC.COM has also been a great help. She can provide many parts, especially electrical.
Aardie.
I was looking for pictures of an older controller to post for your reference, but I think I ditched them when I was done.
There are a number of suppliers for 221 parts.
We know Billy has setup shop and may already have access to rebuilt controllers.
Graham has taught me what I have learned. He is at:
http://www.singer-featherweight.com
Jenny at http://shop.SEW-CLASSIC.COM has also been a great help. She can provide many parts, especially electrical.
Aardie.
09-23-2010, 05:59 PM
#40
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 150
Originally Posted by Charlee
Aardie... ***KOTC*** (kiss on the cheek) William just fixed the foot controller and I can slow stitch now!! WOOHOO!! Thank you so much... :)
Wow, maybe I should hire on to Billy's shop as part-time help!
I could type gibberish while he does useful work.
Oh, You are welcome Charlee. Glad to help.
:lol:
Aardie.
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