cathyvv

I wish I could remember where I found this list of things to check when having tension and assorte other problems...I did write down the name of the person who wrote it.

Many of the tips are for long arm machines, but some are universal to all sewing machines. This list helped me get the tension on my HQ16 adjusted correctlyafter a month of trying. I downloaded it, printed it and it is on the wall near my HQ16.

I hope it helps you like it helped me.

Dick Fuller’s Tips
24 September 2003

Top Thread Breaking
1. Try different thread or put thread in the refrigerator for several hours.
2. Replace needle and ensure the scarf faces the throat of the machine.
3. Check thread path. Re-thread the machine if necessary.
4. Use larger needle to reduce needle deflection.
5. Loosen fabric roller.
6. Adjust Needle-Bar so all of the Needle-Eye can be seen while looking into the Hook Basket with the Bobbin Case removed.
7. Time: Turn machine forward with Hand Wheel and place the POINT of the Sewing Hook in the middle of the scarf of the Needle as it rises 3/32” (less than 1/8”) from the lowest position. The Hook should almost touch the Needle.
8. Polish Hook Point with fine (800) Emery Cloth.
9. Hopping Foot at the lowest point of it’s stroke should be the thickness of one dime or three business cards.
10. Loosen top tension.
11. Tension Check Spring broken. It should be at 11 o’clock.
12. Turn thread cone/spool upside down.
13. Turn the Needle slightly to the right.

Loops on Under Side of Lining Fabric

1. Moving machine too fast for selected needle speed.
2. Tighten (to the right) top thread tension adjustment ¼ turn at a time until corrected.
3. Clean under the Tension Spring on the Bobbin Case.
4. Bobbin thread not in tension spring delivery eye.
5. Put a sock on thread cone.
6. Check thread path on machine.
7. The stationary finger that holds the Hook Assembly and prevents it from turning should be ½ to 2/3 into the
depth of the notch.
8. Oil Bobbin Case.
9. Replace/repair Bobbin Backlash Spring.

Loose thread Tension on Top Fabric

1. Tighten Tension Adjustment (turn clockwise).
2. Loosen Bobbin tension.
3. Center the thread cone directly under the guide.

Machine Hard To Move

1. Raise Take Up Roller to clear the machine lower arm
by ½” to ¾” or the width of your finger.
2. Thread clogging wheel(s).
3. Center wheels on the track groove by adding or removing washers.
4. Increase Hopping Foot height.

Skipped Stitches

1. Replace Needle, insert all the way up with the scarf toward the throat of the machine.
2. Re-time (See #8 Top Thread Breaking).
3. Take-Up Roller too high.
4. Loosen Fabric Roller.
5. Polish Hook Point with fine (800) Emery Cloth.
6. Thread not on Check Spring Arm.
7. Check thread path on machine.
8. Hopping Foot too high.
9. Tension Check Spring at 11 o’clock with moderate resistance.
10. Correct gap between Needle and Hook.

Needle Breaking

1. Replace Needle and tighten Needle Set Screw.
2. Use larger needle.
3. Moving machine too fast for speed setting.
4. Re-time (See #8 Top Thread Breaking).
*Note on Timing: Adjust the Needle Bar height first. While in the lowest point of the stroke, look at the sewing hook, and the entire needle eye should be visible. None of the needle above the eye should be seen. Ensure the Needle Bar does not rotate from its original position before tightening.

A proper stitch has both the bottom and top threads meeting at the center of the layers. The top thread and take-up lever have much greater affect on tension adjustment than the bobbin tension. The take-up lever takes the slack out of the top thread as the needle comes up out of the fabric.

Thread can become wrapped around the encoder wheel, causing the stitch regulation mode to malfunction. Grasp the thread-end with tweezers and move the machine to pull and unravel the thread.

debbieumphress

I always make sure the tension is right for what I am doing and I hear the secret is to sew fast and not slow. But I am slow....no breaks here. :)

katier825

On the last quilt I quilted, I applied the spray baste a bit too heavy and it kept gumming up the needle. I tried to clean it, but it wouldn't stay working for long. I must have changed the needle 4 times before I got that thing quilted. I was so glad to finish it. It was the only time I had an issue with the spray baste...user error on that one!

alleyoop1

You have plenty of good suggestions to check out and see if they are the reason your thread keeps breaking. I'd like to suggest a couple more. I tried free motion quilting and had the same problem. My LQS suggested I put my thread spool in a mug because it could be getting too hot running on the spool holder attached to the machine. You would need a thread holder to run the thread through to lift it high enough to thread your machine but this might be the answer. Another thought is your backing fabric. I was using flannel and my LQS told me it doesn't slide as easily as other backing fabrics and could be causing my problem. Hope some of the suggestions you have received help you solve your problem. And remember, go slow. If you tend to go too fast you are actually going to pull your needle which will make that break too! :)

DebbieJJ

I had this problem with my short-arm quilting machine.....I had just changed the bobbin, and I guess I didn't get it threaded thru the little bobbin-holder thingy (brain just went blank)just right. So after working with it for a while and getting VERY frustrated, I finally changed the bobbin out again and it worked just fine.

ka9sdn

When your metalic thread keeps breaking take the spool off and put on a drop of oil and just rub it down the spool. There is a special oil you can get but I'm not sure of its name. I do that when I emb. and it works well.

SandySews

I too doubt it's the spray basting.....But I've had this happen and realized that the thread was catching in the slot of the spool. I took the thread off and turned it around, rethreaded the machine and no more problems. Worth trying anyway.

lttrslogo

You should also check for a burr on the bobbin spindle & bobbin casing. Get an piece of nylon hose and wipe around the bobbin area, needle, and throat plate. The hose will 'snag' on any little rough place.

sblancarte

How old is your thread? I was tearing my hair out with it breaking and took the machine to the dealer and it worked fine! Went home and had the same problem--changed to new thread and voila! problem fixed.

Cherokeequilter

OK, I just read your post and it sound very familiar. What kind of machine are you working on for this project? I have a Babylock Quilter's Pro and have run into this off and on. After speaking to friend regarding this situation, she said to me that often when you are FMQ your needle will glance off the edge of the face plate and make a little burr on the edge. Then when you go in that direction it will cut the top thread. I went back and looked really well and guess what? There was a burr. I took the faceplate off and use a tiny piece of "Mitchell's Abrasive Cord" and filed it off. I ordered it on line but later found it at my sewing repair shop. I also used a embry board to smooth the flat edge. I had replaced dozens of needles and thread pkus changed the tension with no avail until this suggestion. I never FMQ without this stuff on hand as I get in a hurry and pull or push the material. Thank you Jean for telling me this and making life better. JC