How do you control your quilt when you are machine quilting???!!!
08-14-2013, 04:21 PM
#42
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 244
For me the best way to quilt was by following Leah Day's illustrations. If you would check you would see that she has herself "hemmed in" by tables so that the quilt is always supported on all sides. I slide my machine close to the window and then move tables around me so that I can support the quilt on all sides. I even use an old cardboard box to support it on one side where I don't have a quilt. This is a form of "puddling"and you do have to constantly make sure that the quilt is not dragging but works for me. Hopefully this will help you.
08-15-2013, 06:21 AM
#44
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saratoga, Arkansas
Posts: 1,909
Prism99, thanks for your clear instructions on how to divide your batting. If I ever get the courage to try a large quilt, I may try that. I think I may have seen a video of that in my internet travels, but can't remember where. So thanks again for including it in this discussion.
I have only made large lap quilts, but I use the puddle method with machinger gloves, silicone on my extension table, and large table to my left.
I have learned a lot of tips and methods in this discussion. Thanks to all of you who joined in.
I have only made large lap quilts, but I use the puddle method with machinger gloves, silicone on my extension table, and large table to my left.
I have learned a lot of tips and methods in this discussion. Thanks to all of you who joined in.
08-15-2013, 07:44 AM
#45
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 3,025
I am a smoosher and smasher. These are my own terms and probably my own method, but I select a spot to work on and then just smoosh the quilt around this area. Put on my quilting gloves and go to work. When that area is finished I move to another spot.
08-15-2013, 05:54 PM
#46
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Ohio, just east of Toledo
Posts: 1,369
I do not use any clips, I'm a 'scruncher.'
I have found one thing that really helps is some sort of quilt support left of me. Something permanent there is just not practical in my situation, but when I need it, I have a board, seems about 1/8" thick and the dimensions of the open top drawer.
I think anything is that area to support the quilt would help.
(I have been married and lived here over 32 years and just recently got this setup. Lesson learned - good things come to those who wait. And wait. And wait.)
I have found one thing that really helps is some sort of quilt support left of me. Something permanent there is just not practical in my situation, but when I need it, I have a board, seems about 1/8" thick and the dimensions of the open top drawer.
I think anything is that area to support the quilt would help.
(I have been married and lived here over 32 years and just recently got this setup. Lesson learned - good things come to those who wait. And wait. And wait.)
08-15-2013, 06:49 PM
#48
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mapleton, Oregon
Posts: 5,922
I do not roll I puddle the quilt. The roll makes it too hard, too heavy, and difficult to maneuver. I puddle the quilt around my machine and work that area then go on to the next area. I find this way much easier, of course their are always difficult areas, especially in the center, but that doesn't last long. Good luck with your quilt, show us a picture when you are done.
08-16-2013, 09:21 PM
#50
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 4,601
The first explanation I ran across for my favorite method (splitting the batting into 3 parts) was in a book by Debra Wagner. Unfortunately, I don't know which book; however, all three of her books are fabulous.
This method is my favorite because no one will ever know you did the quilt in sections. I used it with 505 basting spray.
Basically I layered my backing and batting, with batting centered on top. I visually divided the batting into 3 pieces. I placed a cutting mat underneath the batting, used a permanent Sharpie to mark registration lines (horizontal marks) along where I was going to cut, and then cut the batting. Before separating the batting pieces, I used the Sharpie to also mark "top" of the batting and "right" (for the batting piece to be removed to the right side). Did the same for the left, then removed the left and right pieces of batting to a safe place. Next step was to peel down the remaining center batting and spray baste as usual. Then I centered the top over this and spray basted the center of the top to the center of the batting.
The center of the quilt is the hardest to machine quilt. Removing the batting from right and left sections means that you are stuffing just fabric under the arm of the machine, making maneuvering much easier. When quilting the center, I left about 6" unquilted on each side. This is important, because you need some space to re-attach the batting.
To re-attach a batting side, I simply laid out the quilt and peeled the top and backing apart (where the excess spray had stuck them together). I used batting tape (which is really just strips of fusible interfacing) to reattach a batting side to the middle batting, and spray basted that side. After quilting one side, I did the same for the other side.
With this method it's really important to mark the batting as you cut so that you can re-attach the batting pieces exactly as they were. If you don't mark, it's really easy to struggle with trying attach the left batting to the right side, or attach a side upside down or wrong side up. Don't skip the registration marks!
Hope this helps. I have not seen the Marti Michell book, but I expect she describes this method somewhere in there.
This method is my favorite because no one will ever know you did the quilt in sections. I used it with 505 basting spray.
Basically I layered my backing and batting, with batting centered on top. I visually divided the batting into 3 pieces. I placed a cutting mat underneath the batting, used a permanent Sharpie to mark registration lines (horizontal marks) along where I was going to cut, and then cut the batting. Before separating the batting pieces, I used the Sharpie to also mark "top" of the batting and "right" (for the batting piece to be removed to the right side). Did the same for the left, then removed the left and right pieces of batting to a safe place. Next step was to peel down the remaining center batting and spray baste as usual. Then I centered the top over this and spray basted the center of the top to the center of the batting.
The center of the quilt is the hardest to machine quilt. Removing the batting from right and left sections means that you are stuffing just fabric under the arm of the machine, making maneuvering much easier. When quilting the center, I left about 6" unquilted on each side. This is important, because you need some space to re-attach the batting.
To re-attach a batting side, I simply laid out the quilt and peeled the top and backing apart (where the excess spray had stuck them together). I used batting tape (which is really just strips of fusible interfacing) to reattach a batting side to the middle batting, and spray basted that side. After quilting one side, I did the same for the other side.
With this method it's really important to mark the batting as you cut so that you can re-attach the batting pieces exactly as they were. If you don't mark, it's really easy to struggle with trying attach the left batting to the right side, or attach a side upside down or wrong side up. Don't skip the registration marks!
Hope this helps. I have not seen the Marti Michell book, but I expect she describes this method somewhere in there.
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