Shortcuts before basics?.. 4 7/8 inch block
10-21-2013, 10:54 AM
#41
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: S. W. Indiana
Posts: 7,484
Originally Posted by Bamagal
Nope. They do not have the 1/8s marks. I would NEVER have posted this if they did. Back in the day, I pieced mostly by hand using plastic templates so I guess the only rulers I needed had only the basic marks. Lol. Guess I need a makeover! Lol
10-21-2013, 10:57 AM
#42
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: S. W. Indiana
Posts: 7,484
Originally Posted by ligia
Wow, thereīs something here I have to learn:
I count 1-2-3-4 (1/2")- 5-6-7-8 (-->1") markers.
Isnīt the 7/8 the last marker before the next full inch (the 8th) ?
I count 1-2-3-4 (1/2")- 5-6-7-8 (-->1") markers.
Isnīt the 7/8 the last marker before the next full inch (the 8th) ?
10-21-2013, 12:07 PM
#43
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 8,104
Most rulers have an 'eighth' 'tick' after each of the 1/4 inch markings on them. Unlike the 1//4 inch marking, It is not usually drawn across the ruler. Good thing for me because all those lines would make me crazy!
I have double vision and sometimes the lines on the rulers kind of merge together when I'm trying to cut. I worked out a way that helps me overcome that might be useful for you with your beginning sewer.
By the way, the written out process looks long and difficult, but it's actually easy after the first couple of times. It definitely helps me with cutting straight.
Here we go!
1) Make sure the end of the fabric where you will begin cutting is straight.
2) Find the 4 and 7/8 'tick' for the length of the ruler. (While I say 'for the length of the ruler', this mark is actually made on the 4 and 7/8 mark on the width of the ruler.)
3) Put a piece of painters tape across the length of the ruler at the 4 and 7/8 point to mark the exact cut line you need to make for the strip.
When I do this, I line the tape up so that the bulk of the piece of tape is inside the 4 & 7/8th marking. If you have 1" wide painters tape, that means the inside edge (the edge you don't use to cut) of the painters tape is at the 3 & 7/8th mark on the ruler.
Note: you can also mark the 4 & 7/8 line on the cutting mat, but it is much easier to remove from the ruler. If you put it on the cutting mat, you may cut the painters tape in little slices and then you have a heck of a time taking them off. Yes, I learned that the hard way.
4) Line the end of the fabric up with the 4 & 7/8 marking and cut the strip.
Note: This assumes that you put the unmarked edge of the ruler over the fabric and slide it up so that the edge of the fabric lines up with the 4 & 7/8 painters tape mark, then cut at the unmarked end of the ruler.
5) After you have cut the strip:
Mark the ruler with another piece of painters tape at the 4 and 7/8 mark of the length of the ruler to cut the individual blocks. (You will cut the individual blocks using the edge of the width of the ruler.) Again, I put the bulk of the tape inside (to the left) of the cut mark.
You can do this before you cut the strip, as well. It might even be better to do it before cutting the strip because it acts as a visual clue to help you position the ruler correctly on the fabric before you cut the strip.
You'll always know, just by looking, which way to position the ruler to cut the strip.
Now you should have a 4 and 7/8" square block marked on the ruler.
Use this mark to cut the individual blocks.
Note: Again, this assumes that you put the unmarked edge of the ruler over the fabric and slide it up so that the end of the fabric lines up with the 4 & 7/8 painters tape mark, then cut at the unmarked end of the ruler.
I hope this helps!
I have double vision and sometimes the lines on the rulers kind of merge together when I'm trying to cut. I worked out a way that helps me overcome that might be useful for you with your beginning sewer.
By the way, the written out process looks long and difficult, but it's actually easy after the first couple of times. It definitely helps me with cutting straight.
Here we go!
1) Make sure the end of the fabric where you will begin cutting is straight.
2) Find the 4 and 7/8 'tick' for the length of the ruler. (While I say 'for the length of the ruler', this mark is actually made on the 4 and 7/8 mark on the width of the ruler.)
3) Put a piece of painters tape across the length of the ruler at the 4 and 7/8 point to mark the exact cut line you need to make for the strip.
When I do this, I line the tape up so that the bulk of the piece of tape is inside the 4 & 7/8th marking. If you have 1" wide painters tape, that means the inside edge (the edge you don't use to cut) of the painters tape is at the 3 & 7/8th mark on the ruler.
Note: you can also mark the 4 & 7/8 line on the cutting mat, but it is much easier to remove from the ruler. If you put it on the cutting mat, you may cut the painters tape in little slices and then you have a heck of a time taking them off. Yes, I learned that the hard way.
4) Line the end of the fabric up with the 4 & 7/8 marking and cut the strip.
Note: This assumes that you put the unmarked edge of the ruler over the fabric and slide it up so that the edge of the fabric lines up with the 4 & 7/8 painters tape mark, then cut at the unmarked end of the ruler.
5) After you have cut the strip:
Mark the ruler with another piece of painters tape at the 4 and 7/8 mark of the length of the ruler to cut the individual blocks. (You will cut the individual blocks using the edge of the width of the ruler.) Again, I put the bulk of the tape inside (to the left) of the cut mark.
You can do this before you cut the strip, as well. It might even be better to do it before cutting the strip because it acts as a visual clue to help you position the ruler correctly on the fabric before you cut the strip.
You'll always know, just by looking, which way to position the ruler to cut the strip.
Now you should have a 4 and 7/8" square block marked on the ruler.
Use this mark to cut the individual blocks.
Note: Again, this assumes that you put the unmarked edge of the ruler over the fabric and slide it up so that the end of the fabric lines up with the 4 & 7/8 painters tape mark, then cut at the unmarked end of the ruler.
I hope this helps!
10-21-2013, 12:18 PM
#44
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,043
Originally Posted by FroggyinTexas
All you folks who say your rulers have 1/8 marks or 1/16 marks are probably correct, but unless you know what the marks mean, they are useless marks. I looked at every ruler I own--and believe me, I own a bunch--and the only one that has 1/8 increments both maked and with writng to explain the mark, is Easy Ruler II. Knowing what all those skinny little marks are is not somethng you "just know," any more than you "just know" the sun comes up in the east and sets in the west or that you "just know" that if you face north, west is on your left and east is on your right. You may figure it out on your own, but it certainly does make things easier if there is someone to teach you.
I didn't know what all those tiny little lines and intervals on rulers and professional measuring tapes were until my brother, who is a master plumber who had to get correct measurements for pipes and fittings, taught me.
AS for a 4 7/8 block, please give it a rest! Make everything you can 1/8 inch larger and go on about the business of making the quilt.
I am afraid I think measuring quilt blocks in 1/8 inch increments is as ludicrous as the scant 1/4 inch, which to date no one has explained very satisfactorily to me. If it is, as people have told me, the width of a thread--PHOOEY!
But then, I'm your basic noncompetitor who wants things finished instead of perfect! Remember your high school home ec teacher who made you "take it out," until the fabric was stretched beyond redemption and left you so traumatized you never sewed another garment? Thank heavens for my mother from whom I learned my efficient but imperfect way of sewing! froggyintexas
I didn't know what all those tiny little lines and intervals on rulers and professional measuring tapes were until my brother, who is a master plumber who had to get correct measurements for pipes and fittings, taught me.
AS for a 4 7/8 block, please give it a rest! Make everything you can 1/8 inch larger and go on about the business of making the quilt.
I am afraid I think measuring quilt blocks in 1/8 inch increments is as ludicrous as the scant 1/4 inch, which to date no one has explained very satisfactorily to me. If it is, as people have told me, the width of a thread--PHOOEY!
But then, I'm your basic noncompetitor who wants things finished instead of perfect! Remember your high school home ec teacher who made you "take it out," until the fabric was stretched beyond redemption and left you so traumatized you never sewed another garment? Thank heavens for my mother from whom I learned my efficient but imperfect way of sewing! froggyintexas
maybe this video will help you see the advantage of the scant 1/4" seam.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBoLPslLxTs
I like things finished, too, but I like them to be the best I can make them.
10-22-2013, 07:42 AM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Brazil
Posts: 681
Originally Posted by Skittl1321
There should only be 7 marks in between the inch marks, what you write here is correct, the earlier statement that there are 8 marks between the inch marks would be incorrect.. The 1 inch mark for instance is eight-eighths; the 2 inch is sixteen-eighths.
Expressing ideas can be sometimes confusing for those to whom English is not first language.
10-28-2013, 10:12 AM
#47
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Now Florida; originally from Connecticut
Posts: 39
I just did a table runner that called for 4-5/8" block. I found that my cutting mat did not have 1/8th measurements. I used a regular ruler but the spacing was very small & I had much difficulty cutting the squares. I'll square up next time but I wish patterns would just give us measurements in 1/4" sizes.
Marilee
Marilee
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