MarieM

I have a few days off from work and thought it would be fun to get my White Rotary treadle machine running. I found an instruction book on line and have the machine threaded and bobbin threaded according to the diagrams. My problem is that the top thread won't pull the bobbin thread up and the bobbin slides around in the shuttle unless I hold it in place. I'd appreciate any insights anyone has.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Marie M.

lmc8

Marie, I too have a White Rotary circa 1912 that is waiting for my attention and for which I have been researching the last few months.

I remember, about a week or two ago I ran across a quilting youtube video by Leah Day in which she spoke about a fix for wobbly bobbins; on her blog she sells an insert that sits between the bobbin case and the bobbin thread spool. You may also have the wrong size bobbin for that machine, it is my understanding that modern day bobbins do not fit antique machines.

Regarding the tension, below I've pasted my edited tension troubleshooting notes that I think originally came from the ISMACS website.


STITCH TENSION

Sewing machine thread tension control occurs in upper (a dial or knob on the sewing head) and lower (bobbin case) adjustments; always adjust top tension first because it more often than not is the culprit of tension issues. The upper thread passes between two spring-loaded discs; by turning the dial clockwise or counter-clockwise you increase or decrease the pressure on the thread as it passes through. There is no such thing as AUTOMATIC tension as is boasted in modern advertisements. A perfect stitch is one that is interlocked evenly between fabric layers. A skilled operator will alter the tension many times while sewing a item that varies in thickness. If the stitch is unbalanced the top or bottom thread can be easily pulled out; faults in tension also result in loose threads, looping, puckering, bunching and more. Such faults can be eliminated by understanding the simple procedure of tension adjustment. It is the top thread that is being taken around the lower thread and then pulled back up. Too little top tension will not bring up the lower thread far enough, too much will pull the lower thread right through both fabric layers. If the top and bottom tensions are balanced but both too tight the fabric will pucker; loosen both top and bottom tensions a little at a time until a smooth stitch is achieved.

THREAD TENSION ADJUSTMENT

1. When adjusting tension use a good quality thread such as polyester threads that give a sturdy stitch with a bit of give in comparison to cotton thread. The top thread passes through the eye of the needle many times before it finally gets taken up in the fabric; demonstrate this by marking the thread above the needle and watching it as the hand-wheel is turned. Lumpy or week thread will not withstand the friction of the repetitive stitching. Furthermore, new polyester thread can be up to half the thickness of the old cotton one In simple terms this means that by switching from polyester to the old cotton you have instantly changed the thread tension by a huge amount and this can lead, instantly, to a poor stitch. Always keep a spool of new, white, polyester thread handy and, if your machine acts up, switch to it and see if the stitch is better.
   
2. Test the thread by pulling an arm's length of thread off the spool and hold the length ends forming a U shape between opposite hands. Move your hands closer together and observe what the thread does; if you have a balanced thread nothing will happen, if you have an unbalanced thread the thread will suddenly twist around itself as it gets closer together. This twisting causes jamming within thread guides and tension disks. Do not use unbalanced thread.
3. Large spools of thread available today can alter a well-balanced machine and throw the stitch balance out because they are harder to turn when the thread is unwinding. If you are having tension trouble and are using a large spool of thread, wind the thread onto a bobbin and place the bobbin on top of the machine and use it like a small spool of thread.
4. Loopy under stitching is the most common problem either caused by top tension or incorrect threading. If you have a perfect underneath stitch with a straight-line stitch on top and turning the tension dial has no effect, then lower thread adjustment is needed.

UPPER TENSION ADJUSTMENT

1. Note where the top tension is set, and test stitches with different tension settings, then return to the original tension setting. As you turn the dial clockwise, you are increasing the tension; counter-clockwise, decreasing it. The lighter the pressure on the dial the lighter the upper tension is in the fabric.
2. Ensure the tension unit is working. Whatever number your tension dial goes up to, place it at half that, so you are in the middle of the dial. If your dial is un-numbered, turn from lowest to highest tension and judge the halfway point, set the adjustment to that point. Thread the sewing machine, pulling the thread through the needle's eye with the presser foot in the raised position which will allow automatic tension-disc release. As you raise the foot the discs release, allowing you to pull the thread through without bending the needle too much or breaking the thread. Then lower the foot and see what happens when you pull the thread with the foot down. It should become tight to pull. If the thread is not tight enough to bend the needle then your tension dial is not working properly, or the tension is set so low that it does not work, or the thread is not in the tension unit properly,
3. If the tension disks appear to be too loose or too tight, even on the opposite extreme settings, first check that the thread is between the disks, then check that there is nothing jammed between the disks that stops them from squeezing the thread (gently pry them apart, with minimum tension and observe). You may have to dig out remnants of thread wound around the middle stud, or other stuck foreign objects., the disks may also be rusty in which case you should polish lightly with a string around the disk slot and pulling it back and forth. In severe cases consult a repair person.
4. Now that we now the tension unit is working we need to adjust it to find an average balance for the average material. So use normal fabric, such as a strip of clothing-weight cotton cloth. Fold it double as if you were going to sew a seam. Start to sew and examine the stitch looking for a balanced, even, stitch on the top and bottom, with the lock right in the middle of both layers. Test by sharply pulling one of the threads coming from the stitched material; if it snaps on the first couple of stitches then it means the stitch is securely in the fabric, if the thread can be pulled out or puckers the stitching, then you will need to adjust tension altering the stitch according to what the problem is.
5. Once you have found this BALANCE POINT make sure you remember it. From this number you should be able to sew 90% of all fabrics. You may decrease the number for lighter work, say nets or satin, and increase it for curtains or denim. But always put the tension back to this point.

LOWER TENSION ADJUSTMENT

1. Thankfully the classic symptoms of lower tension failure are obvious. Observe the stitching and see if the lower thread has pulled through to the top of the fabric. The underneath will look fine, perhaps a little loose—however, the top thread will be able to be pulled out of the fabric. This is because the loop in the lower thread is laying on top of the fabric, not pulling the top thread into the fabric. Furthermore this scenario will have little or no effect when altering the top tension dial.
   
2. To test if the thread is being held properly by the tension discs, when ready for sewing, you need to lower the foot then grasp the thread where it comes out of the eye of the needle and pull. The thread on all machines should be tight enough to bend the needle when pulled. If not, the most common reason is a restriction between the tension discs, caused by lint or corrosion or trapped threads. Once you have done the test, put your numbered tension dial halfway; then leave the top thread tension alone.
3. Test for Bobbin Case issues... Wind a full bobbin of new white thread of any type. Place the bobbin into the bobbin case and suspend the bobbin by the thread, as if where a spider hanging from a strand of spider web. If, when you hold the thread, the case simply drops to the floor you need to adjust the bobbin-case screw clockwise, a small turn at a time, until it just holds its own weight. Then when you jerk your hand with a single shake, if the bobbin drops a little then dangles then you have found the correct balance point. If the case does not move you need to adjust the bobbin-case screw counter-clockwise, again using small adjustments at a time. After each adjustment run a trial stitch and examine.
4. Although this is the balance point some machines need to be adjusted slightly tighter or looser for the perfect stitch. When adjusting from this point make only very small movements of the screw, about one sixteenth of a turn at a time. Once you are right with the lower tension you can go back to the top tension unit again and make final adjustments, say from a four to a five, or a four to a three, to get it just perfect.
5. Some find that a machine sews better with the bobbin going one way, some the other, only trial and error points this out for your machine.

Hope this helps.

J Miller

Marie,

This is the bobbin you need for the White Rotary machines: { http://www.shop.sew-classic.com/Bobb...5-pack-744.htm }. They are a tiny bit wider and larger in diameter than a FW bobbin. I don't think the FW bobbin will fit due to the smaller hole, but if they did, they'd not work right.

Joe

ljfox

You can get the bobbins on EBAY for less than the previous post. I think I just paid about $1 each for them.
I probably downloaded the same booklet that you did, since I just got my White Family Rotary from a relative a couple of months ago. I had a hard time figuring out how to get the bobbin threaded but figured out there is a notch on the part that points out that you have to catch the thread through. Then it will work properly. If you have the correct bobbin and need a picture of how to thread the bobbin case, I will try to figure out how to do that, just let me know.

MarieM

Thanks IMC8 and J Miller for the information. I do have some of the teflon washers that Leah Day features so I will give one of those a try. The bobbin I have came with the machine and looks like the one from Joe's link but I'll measure it to double check. We have an OSMG not far from here so I can always take it to him if I need to, I just really wanted to do it on my own. I haven't totally taken it apart and cleaned it, I did get the surface dirt off and oiled it well and she moves freely. I'll play with it more over the weekend, I'll let you know if I'm successful or not.

J Miller

Marie,

I forgot to tell you the machine rotates backwards from Singers. If you turn the hand wheel towards you it won't pick up the bobbin thread properly.

Joe

purplefiend

Cindy Peters also has the bobbins for the White Rotary. I bought mine from her. Contact her directly @
[email protected], it will cost less because there are no ebay fees.
Sharon
p.s. I love sewing with my 1917 White Rotary treadle.

MarieM

Joe, thanks I'll try it after dinner.

MarieM

Sharon,

Thanks I'll contact her about the bobbins.

M~

J Miller

I have three White made machines that use the same bobbins. I've amassed quite a few from GW and Sew-Classic.
The only thing I don't like about the ones Sew-Classic is there isn't any thread holes in the sides. I had to drill my own.

Does Cindy Peters have a web site?

Joe