Got any Tool Tips?
04-23-2014, 11:35 AM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NW MO
Posts: 591
A couple things used on today's project.
I used a couple things today on projects I thought might be of interest on this topic. One is after misplacing my soldering wire helper enough times, I hot glue stuck it on my soldering iron. The helper was also very unstable. Attaching it to the soldering gun gave each enough weight both are more stable.
The second is a binder clip holding my thread ends on cone spools. I have enough loose threads without each cone thread end adding to the mess.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]472803[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]472805[/ATTACH]
The second is a binder clip holding my thread ends on cone spools. I have enough loose threads without each cone thread end adding to the mess.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]472803[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]472805[/ATTACH]
Last edited by Vridar; 04-23-2014 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Spelling and grammer
04-23-2014, 01:04 PM
#64
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NW MO
Posts: 591
Miriam, more accurately, I hot glue stuck the soldering helper on top of the base of my soldering gun. The gun has the base which controls the temperature of the gun. So, I didn't solder to the gun, I soldered to the base. It's difficult to succinctly and clearly communicate through a computer screen.
04-23-2014, 08:47 PM
#65
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Originally Posted by oldsewnsew
Here's another "dim bulb" piece of test gear from the days when I tinkered with old tube radios and hi-fi's.
It is a short circuit detector, that limits the current. It will also slow down a motor, it's not the same principle as a rheostat because almost full line voltage is still across the motor. This is actually a receptacle that came with a socket for one of the old screw in glass fuses. A bulb will light when the motors plugged into it. A motor has almost no resistance unless there is an open in the wiring somewhere. But the circuit breaker for that wall won't trip, even if there's a short, because the bulb limits current, a 1 amp motor, (around 100 watts give or take) with a 100 Watt bulb screwed in, will run about full speed. If you try to stop the motor, the bulb (which was kind of dim) will start to get brighter because the load is increasing.
Again, my caveat is don't get too wild with this stuff, don't do it on a wet basement floor, etc, etc etc...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]471704[/ATTACH] In the first photo, the test box is plugged in, but the motor isn't. Next photo, the motor is plugged in and running [ATTACH=CONFIG]471705[/ATTACH] I think that was a 75W bulb, motor was about 80% of full speed, next photo 100W bulb, brighter, and motor going almost full speed.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]471706[/ATTACH]Please excuse the bare ugly vise jaws on the motor, normally I'd cushion it with something. You may wonder why I did this...dunno just to see what would happen I guess.
It is a short circuit detector, that limits the current. It will also slow down a motor, it's not the same principle as a rheostat because almost full line voltage is still across the motor. This is actually a receptacle that came with a socket for one of the old screw in glass fuses. A bulb will light when the motors plugged into it. A motor has almost no resistance unless there is an open in the wiring somewhere. But the circuit breaker for that wall won't trip, even if there's a short, because the bulb limits current, a 1 amp motor, (around 100 watts give or take) with a 100 Watt bulb screwed in, will run about full speed. If you try to stop the motor, the bulb (which was kind of dim) will start to get brighter because the load is increasing.
Again, my caveat is don't get too wild with this stuff, don't do it on a wet basement floor, etc, etc etc...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]471704[/ATTACH] In the first photo, the test box is plugged in, but the motor isn't. Next photo, the motor is plugged in and running [ATTACH=CONFIG]471705[/ATTACH] I think that was a 75W bulb, motor was about 80% of full speed, next photo 100W bulb, brighter, and motor going almost full speed.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]471706[/ATTACH]Please excuse the bare ugly vise jaws on the motor, normally I'd cushion it with something. You may wonder why I did this...dunno just to see what would happen I guess.
So Ron, did you try out your 2 stage rheostat? If you haven't already, you can try it with a solid state controller, but I believe they use a triac that won't trigger once the voltage drops too low. (the rheostat may be higher resistance than the motor)
Couple good ideas you posted there. I think I stopped using a third hand gadget because it was usually getting tipped over. Maybe I should dig it back out!
04-24-2014, 02:30 AM
#66
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NW MO
Posts: 591
Originally Posted by oldsewnsew
So Ron, did you try out your 2 stage rheostat? If you haven't already, you can try it with a solid state controller, but I believe they use a triac that won't trigger once the voltage drops too low. (the rheostat may be higher resistance)
Still need to try it with the electronic foot control. Have too many projects depending on that machine to risk blowing the controller.
04-24-2014, 05:35 AM
#67
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Originally Posted by Vridar
Yes, works perfectly, but, I've only used it with the resistance type controllers. The in-line rheostat has 6 stages I can set it on. Set it on the 1st resistance and the 201 foot controller pedal-to-the metal and the SM just "crawls." For my abilities, the 3rd resistance seems perfect. That setting offers a little speed variable and the fastest is within my sewing abilities. Like we knew, the SM lights wired on same circuitry are also affected by the resistance.
Still need to try it with the electronic foot control. Have too many projects depending on that machine to risk blowing the controller.
Still need to try it with the electronic foot control. Have too many projects depending on that machine to risk blowing the controller.
04-24-2014, 06:13 AM
#68
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
And if experimenting destroys it, I'll send ya another. FWIW I put one on Mary's Bernina 817 thinking it would help with a problem. Eventually it failed, would not stop when let up. It wasn't mechanical failure either and I didn't have time to troubleshoot it. If the lights too dim why not put a screw w 2 jam nuts on the pedal?
04-24-2014, 07:44 AM
#69
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NW MO
Posts: 591
Damn, that would have been too simple a solution. Why didn't you mention that earlier. Oh, well, I can use the modified resistance pedal for many applications. As a matter of fact I may do the screw/jam nut thing to one of my clam pedals and wire it for replaceable terminals to use on many different machines. Same results. My original idea was to wire the rheostat to one outlet of the quadplex so I could use on many machines by just plugging a machine into the controlled outlet. A replaceable terminal end on the clam shell controller with the screw/jam nuts serves the same principle.
My wife keeps her mind sharp with Sudoku puzzles. I explain to her these mechanical exercises are my "Sudoku." Works for me and keeps me out of the pool hall.
<If the lights too dim why not put a screw w 2 jam nuts on the pedal?>
My wife keeps her mind sharp with Sudoku puzzles. I explain to her these mechanical exercises are my "Sudoku." Works for me and keeps me out of the pool hall.
<If the lights too dim why not put a screw w 2 jam nuts on the pedal?>
Last edited by Vridar; 04-24-2014 at 07:53 AM.
04-24-2014, 08:41 AM
#70
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Originally Posted by oldsewnsew
ya could put an adjustable stop screw on your control if this doesnt perform like you want... I know i said that and I'm sure YOU know what you're doing, i just try to err on the side of caution for others. I got overconfident the the other night on an AC plug and a stray strand found its way across and popped the c/b. 1am might have been part of the cause tho...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
Links and Resources
5
09-23-2010 11:57 AM
