Go Back  Quiltingboard Forums > Machine Embroidery
Embroidery Machines Lets Chat & Have Fun >

Embroidery Machines Lets Chat & Have Fun

Embroidery Machines Lets Chat & Have Fun

Thread Tools
 
Old 11-28-2014, 12:14 AM
  #2831  
Senior Member
 
cherylmae's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Valley, Washington
Posts: 487
Default

Hi, am going to have to read thru all these. Just got on here to give a small tip mainly, as it is late. I just bought a brother pe 770 embroidery machine, has a 5x7 hoop and simple to use and I really love it....but changed bobbin thread..prewound and now it is eating my thread and towel. So read where I need to use the M size. Will look for those tomorrow and see if that takes care of the problem, as I have Christmas gifts to do. Anyway my tip is, I didn't have any cut away, so used...used dryer sheets...and worked perfectly fine.
cherylmae is offline  
Old 11-28-2014, 12:45 AM
  #2832  
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Default

Originally Posted by cherylmae View Post
Hi, am going to have to read thru all these. Just got on here to give a small tip mainly, as it is late. I just bought a brother pe 770 embroidery machine, has a 5x7 hoop and simple to use and I really love it....but changed bobbin thread..prewound and now it is eating my thread and towel. So read where I need to use the M size. Will look for those tomorrow and see if that takes care of the problem, as I have Christmas gifts to do. Anyway my tip is, I didn't have any cut away, so used...used dryer sheets...and worked perfectly fine.
No, M bobbins are not what you need. Brother SA156, class 15, A style bobbins are what you want. I think M style bobbins are used in commercial machines. My Bff has the 770 and has always used pre wounds she buys on Amazon. I would look for some other cause of your problem.

Cari
Cari-in-Oly is offline  
Old 11-28-2014, 09:13 PM
  #2833  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 5,896
Default

Originally Posted by cherylmae View Post
Hi, am going to have to read thru all these. Just got on here to give a small tip mainly, as it is late. I just bought a brother pe 770 embroidery machine, has a 5x7 hoop and simple to use and I really love it....but changed bobbin thread..prewound and now it is eating my thread and towel. So read where I need to use the M size. Will look for those tomorrow and see if that takes care of the problem, as I have Christmas gifts to do. Anyway my tip is, I didn't have any cut away, so used...used dryer sheets...and worked perfectly fine.
I also recently bought the Brother PE 770. I've been mostly 'playing' with my machine but have noticed that the tighter my fabric is in the hoop, the better the stitches are. Make sure the dryer sheet isn't stretching any, as the stitches are made.

I use the plastic, class 15 bobbins. Several came with the machine and they're the same as the type I use for my Janome.

Last edited by Neesie; 11-28-2014 at 09:15 PM.
Neesie is offline  
Old 11-28-2014, 10:07 PM
  #2834  
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Default

Originally Posted by Neesie View Post
I also recently bought the Brother PE 770. I've been mostly 'playing' with my machine but have noticed that the tighter my fabric is in the hoop, the better the stitches are. Make sure the dryer sheet isn't stretching any, as the stitches are made.

I use the plastic, class 15 bobbins. Several came with the machine and they're the same as the type I use for my Janome.
There's a fine line between tight enough and too tight. If you hoop too tight, especially with a dense design, you run the risk of the stitches pulling at the weave and you end up with holes at the edge of your design. Hooping a thick item too tight also runs the risk of warping your hoop. Proper hooping takes practice, I've ruined more than one project and one hoop getting the hang of it. Lots of frustration at times but I knew it was my errors and not the machine. I finally found what works better for me most of the time with the 5x7 hoop is to hoop the stabilizer and float my project using spray adhesive(wovens) or sticky backed adhesive(knits) and a basting stitch.

Cari
Cari-in-Oly is offline  
Old 11-29-2014, 08:30 AM
  #2835  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 5,896
Default

Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly View Post
There's a fine line between tight enough and too tight. If you hoop too tight, especially with a dense design, you run the risk of the stitches pulling at the weave and you end up with holes at the edge of your design. Hooping a thick item too tight also runs the risk of warping your hoop. Proper hooping takes practice, I've ruined more than one project and one hoop getting the hang of it. Lots of frustration at times but I knew it was my errors and not the machine. I finally found what works better for me most of the time with the 5x7 hoop is to hoop the stabilizer and float my project using spray adhesive(wovens) or sticky backed adhesive(knits) and a basting stitch.

Cari
Granted there is such a thing as being too tight. . . and in the light of day, I can see how my comment sounds as if I was advising stretching to the limit! Seriously, I shouldn't post, when half asleep!
What I meant was not to have any sagging of the fabric. Unfortunately, my brain falls asleep before my body does.
Neesie is offline  
Old 11-29-2014, 02:10 PM
  #2836  
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Default

Originally Posted by Neesie View Post
Granted there is such a thing as being too tight. . .
What I meant was not to have any sagging of the fabric.
Yes, that's a much better way to say it. I think more embroidery instructors should say "taught" instead of "tight". And I sincerely hope that when I write a long post like this I'm not sounding bossy or preachy. It's happened recently on another thread. My intention is only ever to help when I can because believe me, I needed so much help in learning about these machines when I first started and didn't get much.

Cari
Cari-in-Oly is offline  
Old 11-29-2014, 02:53 PM
  #2837  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 5,896
Default

Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly View Post
Yes, that's a much better way to say it. I think more embroidery instructors should say "taught" instead of "tight". And I sincerely hope that when I write a long post like this I'm not sounding bossy or preachy. It's happened recently on another thread. My intention is only ever to help when I can because believe me, I needed so much help in learning about these machines when I first started and didn't get much.

Cari
Bossy or preachy? Hmmmmm. Hadn't thought of it that way but now that you mention it . . . . Nah, I'm just kidding! I re-read what I'd written and am glad you corrected my poor choice of words.

BTW, I don't offend easily, unless it's clear the person is trying to be offensive. You were clearly being helpful!
Neesie is offline  
Old 11-30-2014, 07:15 AM
  #2838  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 5,397
Default

I use lots of different threads on my Viking Diamond Deluxe, it has no problem with any. I even managed to get it to emb FSL using serger threads, I just changed my needle, doubled my WSS and slowed my machine down. Not all FSL designs need to be shinny, like things for my grandkids, etc. It works great once I figured it out. I rarely use my 4x4 hoop and have only started using my 5x7 since Viking came out with the magnetic one, its so easy. I will usually find several things to do at once and then use a large hoop.
romanojg is offline  
Old 11-30-2014, 09:32 AM
  #2839  
Super Member
 
Divokittysmom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,007
Default

I agree with the 'taut' not tight tip. I started in 1998 and the mantra was have that stablizer 'drum tight' in your hoop. Everyone has their own interpretation of drum tight! Then people began to get puckered embroideries. Turns out drum tight may have been too tight! Very interesting to see what has evolved over the years. I still am totally enamored and fascinated with my machine embroidering! What a miracle!! My grandma would be totally blown away by how far things have come since her beloved treadle!!
Divokittysmom is offline  
Old 11-30-2014, 01:38 PM
  #2840  
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Default

Originally Posted by romanojg View Post
I use lots of different threads on my Viking Diamond Deluxe, it has no problem with any. I even managed to get it to emb FSL using serger threads, I just changed my needle, doubled my WSS and slowed my machine down. Not all FSL designs need to be shinny, like things for my grandkids, etc. It works great once I figured it out. I rarely use my 4x4 hoop and have only started using my 5x7 since Viking came out with the magnetic one, its so easy. I will usually find several things to do at once and then use a large hoop.
My Janomes aren't fussy about thread either. Most of my FSL is done with cotton thread on doubled Vilene. I love Vilene and use it a lot.

About the hoops, when I bought my MC200e it only comes with the 5x5 hoop. Right then I ordered the little 2x2 hoop. Dealer was surprised I wanted it, most people want to go larger. I said I'm thrifty(read-cheap) and if I'm doing a tiny design I want to use the least amount of stabilizer. It was a good call because I've never had a tiny design stitch out bad no matter how bad I hooped the fabric & stabilizer.

Cari
Cari-in-Oly is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
Main
253
12-29-2023 09:15 AM
beckyw
Main
14
03-26-2013 03:33 AM
craftybear
Main
22
12-09-2010 04:32 PM
craftybear
Main
4
05-25-2010 10:05 AM
craftybear
General Chit-Chat (non-quilting talk)
22
02-13-2010 12:12 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



FREE Quilting Newsletter