Mkotch

If you're the type of person who likes to cut all the pieces for a quilt in advance and then sew them together, a specialty ruler for a log cabin quilt will be useful in that you will have an easy way to cut the right lengths for the logs. If you like to cut as you go, you may not need one. Squaring up blocks after sewing is useful, so a simple square ruler will be useful, too. I usually cut a few blocks' worth of logs, sew them together, then cut some more and sew. I make scrappy quilts, so that method helps me see what colors/styles of fabrics I need to achieve the scrappy look.

carolynjo

Red Garnet, I love your term, "not scrub with your iron." There is no way that can be misunderstood.

bkay

I have the specialty log cabin ruler from Creative Grids. I've only made a few log cabin squares for a block lotto, so I don't have all that much experience with the log cabin. However, it did not seem any different than a regular square up ruler. I've also not seen it demo'd either, so I may not know how to use it effectively.

bkay

luvstoquilt301

You can cut the last round of strips a little wider then square them up perfectly. For example--if you are using 2 inch strips---cut the last total round 2 1/4.

I do have the Creative Grids ruler and like that also. There are tutorials on using it if you just goggle it.

QuiltBaer

I have made quilts using this ruler by Creative Grids. It's great! I used scraps to make a quilt that had over 200 Civil War fabrics. The blocks come out perfect. You square each round as you go. You can make 12 1/2" blocks and 6 1/2" blocks with this ruler.

PAMAR

I don't have many specialty rulers, but I do have the Creative Grids Log Cabin Trim Tool. I love it. As Zozee said, it's really nice not to have to cut each strip to exact measurements. Great use for scraps. Could I do a log cabin with regular rulers - sure. But, in my opinion, this was well worth the investment. It makes sewing log cabins both faster and precise. I have the 8". A friend has the 12", so we borrow. Just taught a beginner quilt class the log cabin block using this tool. Their blocks came out great.

Barbpr

I do not use a special ruler. I used Judy Martin's pattern with over 2000 pieces, cutting them all first and putting them in plastic craft totes. I did not have to trim one square! Once you do one seam and check it, then do one block and check it, all should be fine.

Jeanette Frantz

Well, it sounds like I've done everything wrong! Then, I'm a self-taught quilter. However, my blocks come out very well, and I don't use starch. My method probably sounds like blasphemy, but this is what I do. First, of course, you must have your center block. I generally cut 4" squares, with logs 2-1/2". I cut my logs lengthwise, and I generally cut strips the entire length of my yardage. I then "chain piece" starting with the first color. I then line the blocks and using my ruler, cut the ends squarely, press ( not iron) all the seams after attaching each log. and continue to the next color. What can I say, my method may not work for anyone else, but by cutting lengthwise, there is very little stretching, and I find I use far less fabric, and it is far quicker. I enjoy the whole process, but I really enjoy assembling the blocks the most. I've posted photos of the three log cabin tops I have made, and I'm quite proud of the results. Oh, another thing I do: I save the cardboard rolls from toilet tissue, tape one end of the cut strip to the cardboard roll, and wind it on the roll, pinning each strip to the preceding strip, securing the end of the last strip with a a pin -- your fabric does not become wrinkled, and it does not stretch. I've had no difficulty with my seams matching. As I said, this works for me!

sewbizgirl

I'm not one to buy a special ruler for everything, but while at Tuesday Morning not long ago, I saw a log cabin ruler that looked so easy to use, and it was cheap. It's got marks down the center to line up your 2.5" strips, and then slots to cut the different length pieces you will need. No measuring and everything went together really easily. I like it.

Jeanette Frantz

You know what, my post above is totally messed up. I was trying to edit it, had a problem with my computer and it left me with a total mess above. This is how it should have read:

Well, it sounds like I've done everything wrong! Then, I'm a self-taught quilter. However, my blocks come out very well, and I don't use starch. My method probably sounds like blasphemy, but this is what I do. First, of course, you must have your center block. I generally cut 4" squares, with logs 2-1/2". I cut my logs lengthwise the entire length of my yardage. I then "chain piece" starting with the first color, leaving 1/4" between the blocks.. Once all center blocks have a log attached, separate the blocks (rough cut) press ( not iron) all the seams. Next line up the rough-cut edge of the log just attached and using a ruler and your rotary cutter, trim the edge of the log even with the edge of the block. After attaching each log. continue to the next color log. What can I say, my method may not work for anyone else, but by cutting lengthwise, there is very little stretching, and I find I use far less fabric, and it is much quicker. I enjoy the whole process, but I really enjoy assembling the blocks the most. I've posted photos of the three log cabin tops I have made, and I'm quite proud of the results. Oh, another thing I do: I save the cardboard rolls from toilet tissue, tape one end of the cut strip to the cardboard roll, and wind it on the roll, pinning each strip to the preceding strip, securing the end of the last strip with a a pin -- your fabric does not become wrinkled, and it does not stretch. I've had no difficulty with my seams matching. As I said, this works for me! Also, the cardboard toilet paper rolls make it easy to store your fabric and have it ready to begin the next time you sit down to continue piecing your quilt blocks.