How to mark batiks.
#11
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Heart of Colorado's majestic mountains!
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I also like the Bohin chalk pencils. I also have some chalk called Magic Chalk that disappears with the iron. I used it yesterday on a teal colored batik that I used for a mitered border on a quilt. This is different than Frixion pens. Is purchased it at one of the local LQSs
#14
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
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I would avoid tailor's chalk. Many are wax based and will not wash out. Tailor's chalk is meant to be used in the seam allowance of clothing and the marks are intended to be in the seams so not meant to wash out.
I too use the Bohin Mechanical pencils but only in white. I don't trust any of the chalk colors. I have also used chalk pencils purchased in art supply stores. Just make sure they aren't wax based. In those I have only tried white and light gray. White transfer paper works well, again make sure it is the kind that is wax free. (here is a link to a tutorial I did: Marking an original design on a dark colored top for longarm quilting )
I did purchase the Roxanne's water soluble marking pencils and while they glided smoothly and left a great line, they were hard to wash out (eventually they did but it took a couple of washings) and they also seemed to wear down very quickly. So I don't use those very often.
I too use the Bohin Mechanical pencils but only in white. I don't trust any of the chalk colors. I have also used chalk pencils purchased in art supply stores. Just make sure they aren't wax based. In those I have only tried white and light gray. White transfer paper works well, again make sure it is the kind that is wax free. (here is a link to a tutorial I did: Marking an original design on a dark colored top for longarm quilting )
I did purchase the Roxanne's water soluble marking pencils and while they glided smoothly and left a great line, they were hard to wash out (eventually they did but it took a couple of washings) and they also seemed to wear down very quickly. So I don't use those very often.
#15
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Chapel Hill
Posts: 1,086
Tailor's chalk has wax in it, and is meant to be used on garments on the inside, so less tragic if it doesn't wash out.
Try General's chalk pencils.
Definitely do a test on the fabric before starting though.
Try General's chalk pencils.
Definitely do a test on the fabric before starting though.
Last edited by CorgiNole; 04-04-2018 at 06:23 AM.
#16
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: East Oklahoma - pining for Massachusetts
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Yes, ordinary chalk is wonderful. It's cheap and comes out very easily. In fact, one time I had some lines all marked and let the quilt sit on my sewing table over night. In the morning, the marks were gone!!
Molly Jean, the cat slept on it.
Molly Jean, the cat slept on it.
Last edited by Boston1954; 04-04-2018 at 07:42 AM.
#19
First wash both red and blue with color catchers. Then starch well before you start. Then mark. If you have already put the top together but not sandwiched be sure to stay stitch all around and then wash with color catchers.
I don’t normally prewash and had a red embroidery on a white background bleed really bad on my quilter. She washed several times with color catchers and you would never know that it had bled so bad. Good luck
I don’t normally prewash and had a red embroidery on a white background bleed really bad on my quilter. She washed several times with color catchers and you would never know that it had bled so bad. Good luck
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
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It is risky to wash a top that is not sandwiched and quilted. If the fabrics shrink to different degrees, you can end up with a top that cannot be ironed flat. Once the top is quilted, the quilting will prevent any one fabric from shrinking more than the batting shrinks.
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