A word of praise for my design wall
#11
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,726
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That's the 10ftx7-1/2ft design wall.
I have an other that is corroplast .... 4'x8' sheets
Fleece is duct taped to the back. Then the sheets are screwed to wall.
I have smaller ones of homosote, 2'x4' ... same stapling to the back.
Works great, leaned up, right next to the sewing machine.
Likewise for smaller corroplasts. Lightweight, and can slide into oblivion behind/under furniture or wherever you want.
Then the single block design walls are perfect right at the machine.
I mentioned earlier that pins are not needed for my quilts on the design wall.
However, that being said, I do think it's important for the walls to be pinnable (when you can).
..... All of mine accept pins nicely, as I tend to pin patterns or other notes to the design walls.
Last edited by QuiltE; 03-17-2019 at 03:47 PM.
#12
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 802
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I'm really high tech, lol. Mine is tacked to the wall with giant push pins. I started out by using a staple gun to attach thin cork sheets to the wall to push pin into. That worked just fine, but I used them on the sides a bit, and they worked just as wel without the cork. Staple gun staples and pushpins both make holes that are sotiny that they can be spackled when you move.
#13
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I sewed a pocket to hang my flannel backed table cloth with a curtain rod above my sewing room closet. I roll it up when not in use. I did buy the MSQC daily deal design wall since it is bigger. Thinking I am going to hang it in front of my current one since I could have Two design walls at once!
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 03-18-2019 at 05:28 AM. Reason: shouting/all caps
#14
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I do the flannel backed plastic tablecloth, as I have a wall but used the "design floor" for a lot of years. I have found that buying holiday cloths After the holiday I can spend a lot less, and cut the edge off and duct tape them together to make a really large design wall. But really, whatever works is my motto. I'm cheap and don't like to spend a lot - on anything. Some of my friends used the tableclothes and Roll them up for transport to sewing groups etc. so God Bless Blue Painters Tape. LOL
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 03-18-2019 at 11:53 AM. Reason: shouting/all caps
#15
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9,567
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I didn't attach my flannel to the wall. The flannel is attached to foam board. I also didn't attach my big foam board to the wall. I just stand it wherever I want it leaning against the wall. They are big and so they never move. I do think when it's time to replace the flannel, I'm going to try fleece. I'll have to watch for a sale at Joann.
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Louisville, Ky
Posts: 150
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I don’t have a lot of room to keep one up. I bought a Fons and Poter one on sale and I hang it in the kitchen with the hooks that can be removed . It works well for me. Easy to take down and put away. Deb
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 8,248
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I changed my design wall after being at a guild member's house and she had one covered with lofty poly batting. What a difference. She could put up a finished quilt top and it stayed put. The new design walls you can buy are treated with a light adhesive to hold the fabric. They are great to to take to a retreat.
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 8,248
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Mine is stapled to the back of homosote, then the boards screwed with washers to the wall.
That's the 10ftx7-1/2ft design wall.
I have an other that is corroplast .... 4'x8' sheets
Fleece is duct taped to the back. Then the sheets are screwed to wall.
I have smaller ones of homosote, 2'x4' ... same stapling to the back.
Works great, leaned up, right next to the sewing machine.
Likewise for smaller corroplasts. Lightweight, and can slide into oblivion behind/under furniture or wherever you want.
Then the single block design walls are perfect right at the machine.
I mentioned earlier that pins are not needed for my quilts on the design wall.
However, that being said, I do think it's important for the walls to be pinnable (when you can).
..... All of mine accept pins nicely, as I tend to pin patterns or other notes to the design walls.
That's the 10ftx7-1/2ft design wall.
I have an other that is corroplast .... 4'x8' sheets
Fleece is duct taped to the back. Then the sheets are screwed to wall.
I have smaller ones of homosote, 2'x4' ... same stapling to the back.
Works great, leaned up, right next to the sewing machine.
Likewise for smaller corroplasts. Lightweight, and can slide into oblivion behind/under furniture or wherever you want.
Then the single block design walls are perfect right at the machine.
I mentioned earlier that pins are not needed for my quilts on the design wall.
However, that being said, I do think it's important for the walls to be pinnable (when you can).
..... All of mine accept pins nicely, as I tend to pin patterns or other notes to the design walls.
#19
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 8,248
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Flannel didn't work well for me, I had found the old cardboard cutting table tools used in 60s? Has all the lines n graphs printed on it, anyways I put flannel on it but doesn't work well so I'm gonna try fleece!!! Than kj s ladies!!!
#20
Power Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,726
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Coroplast .... think of cardboard, but made of plastic. You've probably seen it used in lightweight signage, indoor or out. Look for signs that will be tossed out , and you have yours for free, though not likely they will be the full size, but a great way to try it out. Light in weight and semi-rigide, so easy to move around, or tuck behind/under furniture. Available from sign-making shops, either in 4'x8' sheets, or you may be able to buy offcuts at a reduced price.
Hope this helps you, Painiacs!
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