Candlequilter Star Block Paper Piece Pattern Tutorial
#1
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I would like to start this tutorial by apologizing for not doing this first before I sent out the pattern to so many members. It is with my greatest sincere apologizes that some have had difficulty with this pattern. So hopefully this will better explain the steps I use in making this block. Please be patient with me as I create this tute.
Thank you and again my sincere apologizes,
Sherryl
Candlequilter
This is for the 12" finished Candlequilter Star Block pattern. You will have 2 pages of patterns. Page 1 has units 1 and 2 on it and page 2 will have units 3 and 4 on it. You will need to make four copies of each page. Before you make all four copies you want to make sure that your one inch square scale is really one inch square and not any smaller. If it is smaller you might not get a 12 1/2" unfinished block.
The third picture here shows you what a block will look like.
Thank you and again my sincere apologizes,
Sherryl
Candlequilter
This is for the 12" finished Candlequilter Star Block pattern. You will have 2 pages of patterns. Page 1 has units 1 and 2 on it and page 2 will have units 3 and 4 on it. You will need to make four copies of each page. Before you make all four copies you want to make sure that your one inch square scale is really one inch square and not any smaller. If it is smaller you might not get a 12 1/2" unfinished block.
The third picture here shows you what a block will look like.
This is what your finished block will look like.
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#2
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I then take all four copies of one page and cut the units out using my ruler and rotary cutter. Be sure that you have them stacked straight and evenly as you cut them. I cut just past the dashed lines which will be your seam allowance lines.
#3
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I only cut out page 1 units first. I don't cut out page 2 units until I have finished piecing my page 1 units. This keeps me from getting the units mixed up. You can do it however is most comfortable for you.
#4
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On the pattern you will notice both numbers and letters. The numbers are the order in which you will sew your fabric. The letters are your fabric guide. For my example I will be using 4 colors: Letter A will be for my middle star points and will be pieced in area 1 on units 1 and 3 as well as area 4 on units 2 and 4. Letter B will be for my center star points or the smallest star. It will be used only in area 2 on units 1 and 3. Letter C is for the largest star points and will be used only in area 1 on units 2 and 4. Letter D will be my background color and will be used in areas 2 and 3 on units 2 and 4. This will all make more sense as you look at the pattern.
#5
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To piece unit 1 you will want to have 4 pieces of fabric A cut in a 2 x 6 rectangle and fabric B cut in 2 x 3 1/2 rectangle. Take your first piece of fabric A and put it right side out on the underside of your paper where area 1a is. You want to make sure that it covers the area completely. You can check this by holding the paper up to a window or lighted area to see thru the paper.
Here I have my fabric laying behind the area I will piece it to. You can see there is extra on all 4 sides on area 1
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Now I have my second fabric lined up with where I want to sew it and I am checking it by using the light from the window. My 2 fabrics are right sides together at this point.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]208793[/ATTACH]
#7
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I am sewing on the solid line between area 1 and 2. I prefer to use an open toe foot so that I can see the lines better and I also increase the number of stitches to 15 per inch so that when I take off the paper the stitches hold better.
#8
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After you sew the 2 pieces together lay it flat when the pieces separated.
You will see that I used a pin to help hold the first piece of fabric in place while sewing on the line.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]208799[/ATTACH]
This is what your unit 1 will look like from the underside of your paper. Both fabrics now have the right side facing up.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]208800[/ATTACH]
Here I have folded the paper on the line between the areas 1 and 2 and am trimming my 1/4 seam allowance. Some people prefer to trim the seam allowance on the first fabric before adding the second fabric because it gives a nice straight line to help you line up the second fabric with.
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#9
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Trim around your unit by cutting on the dashed line which should be 1/4 line from your solid sewing line. It is very important to make sure that you have an accurate 1/4 seam allowance here.
#10
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I make all four of the Unit 1 pieces before I continue on to Unit 2. This is just my preference but you can do it in any order. I place these 4 to the side and then continue to the next Unit so as not to get any pieces mixed up.
Here are my 4 unit 1's - I have 3 turned up and the 4th one is still facing down after trimming it.
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