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Thread: Candlequilter Star Block Paper Piece Pattern Tutorial

  1. #1
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    I would like to start this tutorial by apologizing for not doing this first before I sent out the pattern to so many members. It is with my greatest sincere apologizes that some have had difficulty with this pattern. So hopefully this will better explain the steps I use in making this block. Please be patient with me as I create this tute.

    Thank you and again my sincere apologizes,
    Sherryl
    Candlequilter

    This is for the 12" finished Candlequilter Star Block pattern. You will have 2 pages of patterns. Page 1 has units 1 and 2 on it and page 2 will have units 3 and 4 on it. You will need to make four copies of each page. Before you make all four copies you want to make sure that your one inch square scale is really one inch square and not any smaller. If it is smaller you might not get a 12 1/2" unfinished block.

    The third picture here shows you what a block will look like.

    This is what your finished block will look like.
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  2. #2
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    I then take all four copies of one page and cut the units out using my ruler and rotary cutter. Be sure that you have them stacked straight and evenly as you cut them. I cut just past the dashed lines which will be your seam allowance lines.
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  3. #3
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    I only cut out page 1 units first. I don't cut out page 2 units until I have finished piecing my page 1 units. This keeps me from getting the units mixed up. You can do it however is most comfortable for you.
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  4. #4
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    On the pattern you will notice both numbers and letters. The numbers are the order in which you will sew your fabric. The letters are your fabric guide. For my example I will be using 4 colors: Letter A will be for my middle star points and will be pieced in area 1 on units 1 and 3 as well as area 4 on units 2 and 4. Letter B will be for my center star points or the smallest star. It will be used only in area 2 on units 1 and 3. Letter C is for the largest star points and will be used only in area 1 on units 2 and 4. Letter D will be my background color and will be used in areas 2 and 3 on units 2 and 4. This will all make more sense as you look at the pattern.
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  5. #5
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    To piece unit 1 you will want to have 4 pieces of fabric A cut in a 2 x 6 rectangle and fabric B cut in 2 x 3 1/2 rectangle. Take your first piece of fabric A and put it right side out on the underside of your paper where area 1a is. You want to make sure that it covers the area completely. You can check this by holding the paper up to a window or lighted area to see thru the paper.

    Here I have my fabric laying behind the area I will piece it to. You can see there is extra on all 4 sides on area 1
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    Now I have my second fabric lined up with where I want to sew it and I am checking it by using the light from the window. My 2 fabrics are right sides together at this point.
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  6. #6
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    This is what it looks like from the back side of the paper before I sew it in place.
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  7. #7
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    I am sewing on the solid line between area 1 and 2. I prefer to use an open toe foot so that I can see the lines better and I also increase the number of stitches to 15 per inch so that when I take off the paper the stitches hold better.
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  8. #8
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    After you sew the 2 pieces together lay it flat when the pieces separated.

    You will see that I used a pin to help hold the first piece of fabric in place while sewing on the line.
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    This is what your unit 1 will look like from the underside of your paper. Both fabrics now have the right side facing up.
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    Here I have folded the paper on the line between the areas 1 and 2 and am trimming my 1/4 seam allowance. Some people prefer to trim the seam allowance on the first fabric before adding the second fabric because it gives a nice straight line to help you line up the second fabric with.
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  9. #9
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    Trim around your unit by cutting on the dashed line which should be 1/4 line from your solid sewing line. It is very important to make sure that you have an accurate 1/4 seam allowance here.
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  10. #10
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    I make all four of the Unit 1 pieces before I continue on to Unit 2. This is just my preference but you can do it in any order. I place these 4 to the side and then continue to the next Unit so as not to get any pieces mixed up.

    Here are my 4 unit 1's - I have 3 turned up and the 4th one is still facing down after trimming it.
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  11. #11
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    Now I am positioning my first fabric Letter C on the Unit 2. I am using the light to help make sure I have the whole area covered. Once I have the area covered to my satisfaction I use a pin to hold that fabric. Next I will fold on the line between area 1 and 2 so that I can cut my 1/4 seam allowance and this will help me to line up my second fabric (D - background fabric) for area 2.

    Checking to make sure area is covered totally
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    Trimming seam allowance and excess fabric to help place second fabric
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    Placing second fabric right side down on top of first fabric which is right side up
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  12. #12
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    I am now completing the rest of Unit 2. The fabric sizes are as follows: Letter C is a 4 1/4 x 2 3/4 rectangle, Letter D is a 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 square for area 2 and Letter D for area 3 is 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 square.

    I am sewing the pieces in order by sewing first on the line between area 1 and 2, then on the line between area 1 and 3 and finally on the line between areas 1 and 4. I trim the seam allowance after I sew each piece in place. This helps to line up the next piece of fabric. I also prefer to press each piece after sewing it on the paper to make sure that it is nice and smooth before I trim my seam allowances.

    Here I sewed on the line between 1 and 2
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    Next I fold the pattern on the line between areas 1 and 3 and trim the seam allowance
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    Here I am now lining up my next piece of fabric with my seam allowance I just cut making sure that this piece is positioned to cover the full area
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    After adding that last piece of fabric I have now laid that flat and have folded the pattern on the line between area 1 and area 4 to trim the seam allowance and get rid of excess fabric. I will use this straight edge to line up my next fabric for area 4.
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    Now I am positioning my last fabric (right side down) on top of the 2 pieces of background fabric that is facing right side up. I make sure that I have a little over the right side of the pattern and the rest over the left so that when it is folded back after sewing it will cover my area 4 completely.
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    This is the completed unit 2 after I trimmed the seam allowance on all sides. It is ready to be put with unit 1.
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  13. #13
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    I am now putting unit 1 and unit 2 together. I place unit 1 on top of unit 2 and line up the upper left edges of both units. Then I place a pin thru the corner of both units. Then I sew from the top of the unit down to that pin. I stop at the pin and with my needle in the down position I raise my presser foot and pivot the bottom unit while holding on to the top unit to line up the rest of the way down the pattern. Sew all the way down to the edge of the pattern.

    I place a pin at the corner of area 2b and 1 area. I make sure that the pin is in the exact spot on the other side on unit 2 but the areas will be 1c and 4a.
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    Here I have unit 1 laying next to unit 2 in the order in which it needs to be sewed.
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    Here I have turned unit 1 over on top of unit 2. Notice how the upper left edges line up
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    Needle down at the pin raise presser foot and pivot
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    Pivoting fabric to line up the rigth edges of all 4 pieces (2 pieces of fabric and 2 pieces of paper). Continue to sew down your line to the end of the pattern
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  14. #14
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    Here is your unit after sewing units 1 and 2 together. I press the unit to allow it to lay nice and flat. Don't forget to trim off the dog-ear on the right side. Repeat this step to make the other 3 units from page 1.

    Next you will repeat all of the above steps by using your page 2 of the pattern. Everything is the same as what you just did.

    Flatten out your unit that is now pieced together and trim off the dog ear on the right.
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    All four units from page 1 of your pattern
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  15. #15
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    After repeating all the steps from the page 1 units for your page 2 units you should have 4 units made up of unit 3 and unit 4 sewn together. Next you will sew the 4 units from page 1 to the 4 units from page 2 together.

    Here are the units from page 1 and page 2
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    Place right sides together and sew on the long diagonal line
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    You have now completed one fourth of your total block - don't forget to trim the dog-ears.
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  16. #16
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    After you have completed the second set of 4 units you are ready to sew it all together. I start by sewing the top 2 together, then the bottom 2 together. Next I remove a little of the paper from right around the very center of the block, then I sew the last 2 sections together. Remove all paper, press and finish by squaring up your block.

    After sewing units from page 1 and units from page 2 together you should have 4 units and now look like this
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    Sew top 2 units together and then the bottom 2 units together
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    Here I remove just about an inch of paper from around what will be the very center of your block before I sew these 2 sections together.
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    After sewing the last 2 sections together
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    Remove all paper and press your block flat and square up your block
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  17. #17
    Senior Member PWinston's Avatar
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    Great tutorial. First of all, love your fabric choices for all your blocks but this one in particular. What a great job you've done on the tutorial - - so diligent in getting it all posted. I've PM'd you for the PP pattern, hope that they are still available.

    Thanks so much for drafting this block and putting the tutorial together.

  18. #18
    Super Member fidgety's Avatar
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    Ok so how did I miss getting this pattern?? How do I go about getting it?

  19. #19
    Moderator Jim's Gem's Avatar
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    Great Tute!! the block is beautiful!!!!

    Can I get a copy of this pattern too??

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim's Gem
    Great Tute!! the block is beautiful!!!!

    Can I get a copy of this pattern too??
    Anyone interested in getting this pattern just PM me and I will send you the info.

    Thanks,
    Sherryl
    Candlequilter

  21. #21
    Power Poster cjomomma's Avatar
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    That's an awesome tut and a georgious pattern. I'm PMing you know.

  22. #22
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    Candlequilter, you are amazing! This is a wonderful tutorial and I think even I, who am seriously PP challenged, could do it successfully.

    It also gives great pointers as to how to succeed in any paper piecing project.

    Thank you once again!

  23. #23
    Super Member verna2197's Avatar
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    Candlequilter thank you for the Tutorial. Once I get back home I will try the block again. Surely this will help me.

    Verna2197

  24. #24
    Super Member suebee's Avatar
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    Great tutorial Sherryl. THANK YOU!!

  25. #25
    Power Poster amma's Avatar
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    Thank you for this wonderful tutorial :D:D:D

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