1/4" Seam using Featherweight.
07-21-2014, 08:01 AM
#41
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: over here
Posts: 1,113
Originally Posted by J Miller
I suppose so. If I ever get some room to work I'm going to design me a working sewing machine table with all the things I need including a pin collector that's out of the way.
Joe
Joe
07-21-2014, 08:09 AM
#42
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: over here
Posts: 1,113
Originally Posted by Rodney
The tin to the left just sounds awkward to me. I'd be spilling it constantly. 
I think I know why so many machines have pin rash from putting a pin cushion on the arm of the machine. It's a convenient place for one. It might work ok if one were to make one with a hard back so the pins don't go thru to the machine. I might give it a try. I'm constantly struggling with where to keep my sewing tools (things like scissors, snips and my stilletto) while I'm sewing. There's not enough room to the right of the machine.
Sorry for the thread drift.
Rodney
I think I know why so many machines have pin rash from putting a pin cushion on the arm of the machine. It's a convenient place for one. It might work ok if one were to make one with a hard back so the pins don't go thru to the machine. I might give it a try. I'm constantly struggling with where to keep my sewing tools (things like scissors, snips and my stilletto) while I'm sewing. There's not enough room to the right of the machine.
Sorry for the thread drift.
Rodney
07-24-2014, 12:03 PM
#45
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Originally Posted by sval
Love the way my thread got turned into a discussion about pin cushions. ?????
At least we're all still talking about sewing related stuff.
Rodney
07-29-2014, 10:40 AM
#46
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 12
I know the forum rules prohibit promotion of commercial items. Even though Nova Montgomery's seam guide web site links have been posted here I expect this post will get deleted even though it addresses the original question. But I'll try.
The question asked is how to get a scant 1/4" seam on a Featherweight. Maybe a better question is how to get a REPEATABLE scant 1/4" seam, since most people don't start and finish one project without doing other sewing on their machine in between.
Last year when I was in Houston I saw the Ideal Seam Gauge and guide made by Steve and LuAnn of Sew Very Smooth. I thought it was really cool but thought that they could make some improvements for use on the FW. I stayed at their booth for 45 minutes watching Steve demo it and then went back later for another 45 minutes. The result of all that conversation was the Featherweight Special Edition of the Ideal seam gauge and guide.
The beauty of this system is that it gives you a repeatable seam allowance from 1/8" up to 1-1/2", including a scant 1/4". Since it measures from the needle you get the exact same seam allowance today, tomorrow, next month, or next year, so that your pieces always line up.
http://youtu.be/XHtA-eEuWpI
For those concerned with putting an adhesive on your Featherweight's finish, not to worry. The guide uses an engineered plastic strip that is tacky on a smooth surface - not an adhesive. We have tested it over and over on several machines in our shop and sold almost 100, and have not had any issues. You do not want to place it on your decals though and the guide is designed to not touch them when you have it properly located. When the strip gets linty and stops sticking you just spray it with blue window cleaner and wipe that off. When it dries it goes back to sticking to your machine.
All of the customers I have talked to love them.
The only gotcha is that when you are working with a normal seam allowance like scant or regular 1/4" the guide sits on both the needle plate and the bed of the machine. If the needle plate on your machine sits really tall compared to the bed as it is on some later machines, machines with a lot of dried oil and gunk under the plate, or the aftermarket graduated needle plates, then it will leave a gap under the guide in front of and behind the needle plate. In our experience it works fine on most machines.
The question asked is how to get a scant 1/4" seam on a Featherweight. Maybe a better question is how to get a REPEATABLE scant 1/4" seam, since most people don't start and finish one project without doing other sewing on their machine in between.
Last year when I was in Houston I saw the Ideal Seam Gauge and guide made by Steve and LuAnn of Sew Very Smooth. I thought it was really cool but thought that they could make some improvements for use on the FW. I stayed at their booth for 45 minutes watching Steve demo it and then went back later for another 45 minutes. The result of all that conversation was the Featherweight Special Edition of the Ideal seam gauge and guide.
The beauty of this system is that it gives you a repeatable seam allowance from 1/8" up to 1-1/2", including a scant 1/4". Since it measures from the needle you get the exact same seam allowance today, tomorrow, next month, or next year, so that your pieces always line up.
http://youtu.be/XHtA-eEuWpI
For those concerned with putting an adhesive on your Featherweight's finish, not to worry. The guide uses an engineered plastic strip that is tacky on a smooth surface - not an adhesive. We have tested it over and over on several machines in our shop and sold almost 100, and have not had any issues. You do not want to place it on your decals though and the guide is designed to not touch them when you have it properly located. When the strip gets linty and stops sticking you just spray it with blue window cleaner and wipe that off. When it dries it goes back to sticking to your machine.
All of the customers I have talked to love them.
The only gotcha is that when you are working with a normal seam allowance like scant or regular 1/4" the guide sits on both the needle plate and the bed of the machine. If the needle plate on your machine sits really tall compared to the bed as it is on some later machines, machines with a lot of dried oil and gunk under the plate, or the aftermarket graduated needle plates, then it will leave a gap under the guide in front of and behind the needle plate. In our experience it works fine on most machines.
07-29-2014, 01:42 PM
#47
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 5,578
Originally Posted by Candace
Be careful using the screw on guides with your FW. The can mar the finish. YOu should use felt protectors or something as you will cry if you damage your machine.
Judy in Phx, AZ
07-29-2014, 01:50 PM
#48
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Originally Posted by dwerther
I know the forum rules prohibit promotion of commercial items. Even though Nova Montgomery's seam guide web site links have been posted here I expect this post will get deleted even though it addresses the original question. But I'll try.
The question asked is how to get a scant 1/4" seam on a Featherweight. Maybe a better question is how to get a REPEATABLE scant 1/4" seam, since most people don't start and finish one project without doing other sewing on their machine in between.
Last year when I was in Houston I saw the Ideal Seam Gauge and guide made by Steve and LuAnn of Sew Very Smooth. I thought it was really cool but thought that they could make some improvements for use on the FW. I stayed at their booth for 45 minutes watching Steve demo it and then went back later for another 45 minutes. The result of all that conversation was the Featherweight Special Edition of the Ideal seam gauge and guide.
The beauty of this system is that it gives you a repeatable seam allowance from 1/8" up to 1-1/2", including a scant 1/4". Since it measures from the needle you get the exact same seam allowance today, tomorrow, next month, or next year, so that your pieces always line up.
http://youtu.be/XHtA-eEuWpI
For those concerned with putting an adhesive on your Featherweight's finish, not to worry. The guide uses an engineered plastic strip that is tacky on a smooth surface - not an adhesive. We have tested it over and over on several machines in our shop and sold almost 100, and have not had any issues. You do not want to place it on your decals though and the guide is designed to not touch them when you have it properly located. When the strip gets linty and stops sticking you just spray it with blue window cleaner and wipe that off. When it dries it goes back to sticking to your machine.
All of the customers I have talked to love them.
The only gotcha is that when you are working with a normal seam allowance like scant or regular 1/4" the guide sits on both the needle plate and the bed of the machine. If the needle plate on your machine sits really tall compared to the bed as it is on some later machines, machines with a lot of dried oil and gunk under the plate, or the aftermarket graduated needle plates, then it will leave a gap under the guide in front of and behind the needle plate. In our experience it works fine on most machines.
The question asked is how to get a scant 1/4" seam on a Featherweight. Maybe a better question is how to get a REPEATABLE scant 1/4" seam, since most people don't start and finish one project without doing other sewing on their machine in between.
Last year when I was in Houston I saw the Ideal Seam Gauge and guide made by Steve and LuAnn of Sew Very Smooth. I thought it was really cool but thought that they could make some improvements for use on the FW. I stayed at their booth for 45 minutes watching Steve demo it and then went back later for another 45 minutes. The result of all that conversation was the Featherweight Special Edition of the Ideal seam gauge and guide.
The beauty of this system is that it gives you a repeatable seam allowance from 1/8" up to 1-1/2", including a scant 1/4". Since it measures from the needle you get the exact same seam allowance today, tomorrow, next month, or next year, so that your pieces always line up.
http://youtu.be/XHtA-eEuWpI
For those concerned with putting an adhesive on your Featherweight's finish, not to worry. The guide uses an engineered plastic strip that is tacky on a smooth surface - not an adhesive. We have tested it over and over on several machines in our shop and sold almost 100, and have not had any issues. You do not want to place it on your decals though and the guide is designed to not touch them when you have it properly located. When the strip gets linty and stops sticking you just spray it with blue window cleaner and wipe that off. When it dries it goes back to sticking to your machine.
All of the customers I have talked to love them.
The only gotcha is that when you are working with a normal seam allowance like scant or regular 1/4" the guide sits on both the needle plate and the bed of the machine. If the needle plate on your machine sits really tall compared to the bed as it is on some later machines, machines with a lot of dried oil and gunk under the plate, or the aftermarket graduated needle plates, then it will leave a gap under the guide in front of and behind the needle plate. In our experience it works fine on most machines.
Joe
07-29-2014, 02:36 PM
#49
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1,850
Originally Posted by dwerther
most people don't start and finish one project without doing other sewing on their machine in between.
07-30-2014, 08:39 AM
#50
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 12
Joe - yes the gauge uses the same principal of indexing off the needle, and allows for many different seam allowance values. Used with the guide it provides a longer guiding surface. Since it will work with any sewing machine with a flat bed surface, you can transfer the work to a different machine and still have the exact same seam allowance.
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