Cleaning and repairing the Shellac clear coat on Vintage sewing machine heads
#281
I'm trying out this method on a 15-91 that had a pretty messed-up clear coat. I've gotten as far as going over it with linseed oil & denatured alcohol, and so far it looks like it's doing it a lot of good -- the clear coat has smoothed out a lot. The first instructions I saw were the ones in this thread which said to let it sit for a day to let it cure. When I checked on it yesterday it was still pretty tacky to the touch. Today it's better but still has some tacky areas.
Am I doing something wrong to cause this, or am I supposed to apply the shellac now even though it still feels tacky? I think I followed the instructions closely but it's the first time I've tried this and might have messed something up. It's inordinately humid here -- could that be keeping it from curing properly? Any advice is much appreciated!
Am I doing something wrong to cause this, or am I supposed to apply the shellac now even though it still feels tacky? I think I followed the instructions closely but it's the first time I've tried this and might have messed something up. It's inordinately humid here -- could that be keeping it from curing properly? Any advice is much appreciated!
#283
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
Hi Daisy,
The surface feels tacky from the linseed oil. At this stage I wipe down the surface with naptha to remove the excess oil. Now don't be alarmed after wiping down with naptha if surface looks very dry and a little milky colored. This is normal. If the surface is smooth to your liking you can start the french polish with shellac and a little linseed oil. Just be careful of the decals. You are not doing anything wrong. Yes after removing the oil from the surface do let the old shellac cure for a day or two to harden back up before french polishing.
The surface feels tacky from the linseed oil. At this stage I wipe down the surface with naptha to remove the excess oil. Now don't be alarmed after wiping down with naptha if surface looks very dry and a little milky colored. This is normal. If the surface is smooth to your liking you can start the french polish with shellac and a little linseed oil. Just be careful of the decals. You are not doing anything wrong. Yes after removing the oil from the surface do let the old shellac cure for a day or two to harden back up before french polishing.
#286
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 442
You are thinking of Fels Naphtha soap, No that is not what you use. Naphtha comes in a can and you can find it at local hardware or paint stores. It is a liquid. Go back and read the start of this thread for more info.
#287
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
You can buy it in the grocery store. It is the lighter fluid used in zippo cig lighters. It will come in a small yellow bottle. Or as HelenAnn said go to a hardware store and get a qt of it in a can. Yes do go to the first of this thread and I have a good tutorial on cleaning up the machine heads.
#288
Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 8
I have been a stocker to this site. Using it to restore my born date May 19,1925 Singer. I am having a problem with trying to remove the stitch length regulator. Does it unscrew all the way out for easier polishing? I can't get it to unscrew at all?
#289
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
It "can" be removed but the re-assembly is a bugger. If it is stuck you can apply sewing machine oil to try to loosen it, if that does not work a few drops of kerosene on it will help break loose the old crud.
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