bumping this back up- I think this will help me solve my 'pitting' problem. Steve, I have lapidary sandpaper up to 3000x- I think I will use that(maybe start at 1500). Then on to paste after the paper.
I also love plain polished metal. |
sounds good.
The general rule that I was taught was to use grit JUST fine enough to cause scratches the same as already exist (or slightly finer), use that to make the surface consistent, then progress to finer and finer grit until the desired finish is achieved. Rubbing compound and polishing compound are usually the last finish I apply. One of my favorite "new" tools is surface conditioning disks/belts. (Think green scrubby) I have them in disks for my drill and belts for my sander in various levels of aggressiveness. They really "condition" the surface rather than stock removal. |
How BEAUTIFUL, Steve! Just love it!
Now, will you lacquer the polished iron or something to keep it from rusting/corroding, or does it not need any kind of protection? I'm thinking of doing this full polish then nickel plating over that to protect it from the humidity here - and the skin oils from use. Plus it will match all the other nickel-plated parts on the machine. :) |
Originally Posted by thepolyparrot
(Post 5781014)
I'm thinking of doing this full polish then nickel plating over that to protect it from the humidity here - and the skin oils from use.
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I am finishing the polish on the handwheel lock today. I should be able to ship it out tomorrow!
pics when done. |
Hey Steve please let me know when you are sending back so I can be on the look out since we are semi-rural out here!
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It went into the box last night. It will be shipped Monday. I hope you like the results.
It was fun and instructional for me as well. |
will one of you post finished pictures?
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Great! I will let you know it comes and and can't wait to see it!!!! A million thanks!
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