Replate/Chrome?
 

Is there any way to re-chrome parts? The handwheel on my machine is missing a piece of chrome. Looks like it chipped off. And way to repair?

Patty,

I suspect the best answer would come from a plating shop. I know that previously plated items have to be un-plated and prepped and re-plated. So they would be the best to ask questions of.

Joe

Patty,

Joe is 100% correct. I do Jewelry plating (silver, copper) but the concept is the same.

some advice...

1. Try looking on old car boards (they are one of the biggest users of this service)
2. Try looking on old boat boards (they are the second most common re-platers)
3. This process is not cheap mostly because of the labyrinthine regulations and permits required.
(one of the most toxic processes in manufacturing)

In most cases it is cheaper to buy a unit that to re-chrome. If the part is rare, it is worth it.

Also, there are some good "chrome" paints being sold that with hand touch-up work can make an unsightly spot less noticeable.

Lastly, if you let me know where you are at i can help you locate a service (Private Message if you'd rather)

I live in Las Vegas, NV.

I think I have the same question as Patty. I soaked the hand wheel in evaporust and all the rust came off but is now a dull gray finish. What did I do wrong?[ATTACH=CONFIG]383155[/ATTACH]

Patty - I was able to find the following in your area;
http://gorillachrome.com/las-vegas-w...chrome-plating
http://decometalfinishing.com/
http://www.yelp.com/biz/american-pol...ting-henderson
http://www.chromeplatingusa.com/


Pam - I just read the website for the "Evaporust". cool stuff. What this did was to basically "eat" (read breakdown) the rust and leave the metal. I would not believe that you did anything wrong. It just needs to be polished now.

So, to explain in really basic terms how metal shines....

If you imagine taking a piece of dull metal, cutting it, and then looking at the side REALLY close the top and bottom surface would look like this...

Top surface: \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Bottom surface: ----------------------

When light comes from the top towards the metal it hits all of those angled faces and the light bounces off at a different angle.

Since only a small portion of the light is actually bounced back to the viewer and the light that does make it back is not all "side by side" the surface looks dull.

When you polish a surface and then cut it, viewed from the side it looks like this...

Top surface: -----------------------
Bottom surface: -----------------------

The light now bounces mostly back to the viewer making the surface reflective.

Now Imagine your piece of metal with rust on it...

Top surface: -0-0-0---00-0---0--
Bottom surface: ----------------------

Now remove the rust.... ( the "v" is the pocket left when the rust particle leaves)

Top surface: -v-v-v---vv-v---v--
Bottom surface: ----------------------

The process of polishing lowers the rest of the surface until there are less "disturbances" in the surface.

Another "image" of this is to imagine a pool of water. when it is Still it is reflective, when it is "rippled" it is not. (actually it is, but the reflections are strongly distorted)

What would be the best way to polish? I tried Brasso from its current dull state.

Pam,

Well, in "my' shop it would be a buffing wheel and polishing compounds.

I can make a couple suggestions for you though;
First try any non-abrasive (contradiction in terms) polish. I use "Flitz". (old fashioned toothpaste works well also)
You can also try putting it on the machine and using "00000 Steel wool" while it is spinning.
But if there is any pitting, it will need to be really polished.

If you would like to send it to California, I would be willing to buff it up for you, no cost.

Thanks Steve!

Steve: Just sent you a PM. Thanks! Pam

It arrived today!

Here is 1 minute in the shop as a quick test.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]384656[/ATTACH]

I think it will work out fine.

What I see is that the grey is a residue. It wirewheels off just fine

The rust has reduced the surface through MINOR pitting which leaves a fine grainy surface

The polish pass just shined up the surface, so the grainy surface is shiny (not our preferred outcome)

I would suggest that I make a gentle pass with my surfacing tools to put the metal back to smooth, then buff. They should shine right up. If that sounds too "invasive" I can just wirewheel and buff.

Your choice

Steve

Hey Steve I like your suggestion above to put the metal back to smooth and buff. Thanks

After the buffing and polishing what do you suggest to use on them to keep future rust away?

Joe

I use Museum Wax (Microcrystaline wax) when needed but truth is once it is polished it is rust resistant (the reason we started polishing things in the first place)

use it, love it, wipe off fingerprints (oil and dirt), should be good.

Steve, I think that "chrome" on the older handwheels is just nickel plating. Wouldn't a wire wheel grind off that thin nickel pretty fast?

I was thinking that a series of buffing wheels with cutting/buffing compounds might be the safest way to start after the Evaporust?

The wire wheel scares me. A tad. Okay, more than a tad - it scares me a lot because it sparks, too! :D I know, I'm a chicken.

I've read some very good things about the nickel electro-plating kits you can buy for small parts, too. Have you ever tried any of those?

I will post a pic later to show but this handwheel had about 10% of the nickel plating left.

I work with coal and gas forges regularly, so not so stressed by sparks
Although I have to say in doing this process I don't get any sparks at all, I use a 6 inch diameter soft/fine wheel on a 1/2 HP motor.

You're also quite correct if this had it's nickel plating the wire Wheeling would just remove it in a heartbeat. In fact that's why I chose the wire wheel for this is because it would remove what's left of the nickel plating to even up the surface.

Then the light sanding to remove the pitting from
the original rust damage, then a series of compounds. (Actually two)

I cleaned one up a bit in a similar but amateurish manner. I used one of those sponge type sanding blocks and turned the hand wheel by the motor with the stop motion knob loosened. It actually came out fair to middlen OK.
I'm looking forward to seeing yours.

Joe

that is a good method, my only worry is particulates getting in the machine from that. I do a similar proess but use a wooden dowel in the center of the wheel and turn it against the wire-wheel.

Looks so much better!

Thanks so much! It's interesting to see that you get so bright a finish after the nickel plating is gone! I think I just lost some of my chicken-ness. :D

I have an electroplating rig. I usually use it for silver plating (yep, already considered it...)
To plate in nickel I would just need to get some of the solution/salts, but it is doable.

The main reason manufacturers use nickel plating is because it costs about $2 to plate something, but takes about a hour of labor to actually put a mirror shine on something. WAY cheaper.

After thinking about this and going to check on a couple of my other "fading plating" old hand-wheels, it seems that Singer did this process of not fully polishing, then plating.

Well, How does it look?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]385828[/ATTACH]

Before (after first test)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]385829[/ATTACH]

It looks great! I am sure it looks better in person. Good job.

thanks, and you are right, it was a crappy picture...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]385835[/ATTACH]

I like the look of these wheels without the original nickel plating.
I REALLY like polished iron...

It really looks beautiful!!!!!!

Wow!! Steve that looks incredible! What a difference with the before and after look. You can bet Miss Martha will be looking quite stylish at 104 years old with her shiny bling!!!
Pam

I would like to do the same to the other part. I'll do that Saturday when i go into work, and then ship it out on Monday

UPDATE:

I was not able to do this over the weekend, and I forgot to bring in the 1200 grit today, so....

I should be able to finish this tomorrow and ship Wednesday.

Steve totally not a problem as I have in no hurry. Take your time!

bumping this back up- I think this will help me solve my 'pitting' problem. Steve, I have lapidary sandpaper up to 3000x- I think I will use that(maybe start at 1500). Then on to paste after the paper.
I also love plain polished metal.

sounds good.

The general rule that I was taught was to use grit JUST fine enough to cause scratches the same as already exist (or slightly finer), use that to make the surface consistent, then progress to finer and finer grit until the desired finish is achieved.

Rubbing compound and polishing compound are usually the last finish I apply.

One of my favorite "new" tools is surface conditioning disks/belts. (Think green scrubby) I have them in disks for my drill and belts for my sander in various levels of aggressiveness. They really "condition" the surface rather than stock removal.

How BEAUTIFUL, Steve! Just love it!

Now, will you lacquer the polished iron or something to keep it from rusting/corroding, or does it not need any kind of protection?

I'm thinking of doing this full polish then nickel plating over that to protect it from the humidity here - and the skin oils from use.

Plus it will match all the other nickel-plated parts on the machine. :)

Actually you do not want to polish then plate. The plating "sticks better" to a matte or satin finish (beadblasted works as well)

I am finishing the polish on the handwheel lock today. I should be able to ship it out tomorrow!

pics when done.

Hey Steve please let me know when you are sending back so I can be on the look out since we are semi-rural out here!

It went into the box last night. It will be shipped Monday. I hope you like the results.

It was fun and instructional for me as well.

will one of you post finished pictures?

This post is the final of the handwheel.

http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post5762317

Great! I will let you know it comes and and can't wait to see it!!!! A million thanks!