Project machine
05-22-2014, 02:58 PM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Midway has Kroil too:
{ http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=Kroil } $14.79 + shipping for the 8 OZ can.
Joe
{ http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=Kroil } $14.79 + shipping for the 8 OZ can.
Joe
05-22-2014, 03:05 PM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
I have had two really really badly rust jammed machines. One was a Singer 99 the other a Wizard.
The Wizard took a propane torch as a heat source along with oil and light tapping on the top of the needle bar to loosen it up. There is no plastic in that area so that didn't hurt anything. Once freed up I removed the bar, cleaned it and the bore thoroughly and reassembled it. Works fine now.
The Singer 99 had a rusted tight needle bar and the oscillating hook was rusted tight too. Getting the needle bar freed up took lots of penetrating oil, I used Liquid Wrench this time, no plastic in there either, and some gentle tapping.
The hook, well the bobbin case was rusted onto the hook so I ended up breaking it. But with lots of oil and some coercion it freed up.
Rusted shafts in bores are a royal pain to get freed up. Sometimes you just got to get serious with them and quit being nice and cautious.
Joe
The Wizard took a propane torch as a heat source along with oil and light tapping on the top of the needle bar to loosen it up. There is no plastic in that area so that didn't hurt anything. Once freed up I removed the bar, cleaned it and the bore thoroughly and reassembled it. Works fine now.
The Singer 99 had a rusted tight needle bar and the oscillating hook was rusted tight too. Getting the needle bar freed up took lots of penetrating oil, I used Liquid Wrench this time, no plastic in there either, and some gentle tapping.
The hook, well the bobbin case was rusted onto the hook so I ended up breaking it. But with lots of oil and some coercion it freed up.
Rusted shafts in bores are a royal pain to get freed up. Sometimes you just got to get serious with them and quit being nice and cautious.
Joe
05-22-2014, 03:14 PM
#17
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
05-22-2014, 03:16 PM
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
A: The acetone evaporates quickly so you need to keep it in a sealed container.
B: The acetone is very flammable so it must be used away from any source of ignition.
C: The acetone is capable of giving the user a screaming, splitting headache as it's a very nasty solvent. It must be used in a well ventilated area.
I have used this combo on some stuck Nissan parts. Worked pretty good. Much better than spending mucho dinero on a a tiny dinky part.
Joe
05-22-2014, 07:04 PM
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
Miriam,
Kroil can be purchased at Kanolabs.com
Last time I ordered I got a 8oz can plus their google special (two spray cans of Aerokroil). When I run low on the liquid in the 8oz can I spray the Aerokroil into a jar and use it that way. I don't use aerosols since they waste a lot of product. To get the special: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
Kroil can be purchased at Kanolabs.com
Last time I ordered I got a 8oz can plus their google special (two spray cans of Aerokroil). When I run low on the liquid in the 8oz can I spray the Aerokroil into a jar and use it that way. I don't use aerosols since they waste a lot of product. To get the special: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
i have 2 super stuck machines, too. Mizkaki has recommended Kroil oil like you would use oil, careful of the paint and heat. Turn it every direction and turn the hand wheel. On mine the bottom moves freely for reverse and free motion. We are thinking the stuck part is the needle bar. I took apart the pressure bar - it had some kind of bad dried up oil in there. Once cleaned it works fine. I assume the needle bar has the same. I haven't found a local source of Kroil yet. It is on my to do list. I have two machines stuck. Mizkaki says when they are like that it is usually the needle bar.
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