Ellpea

Howdy! I just scored a beautiful 15-91 in a cabinet a few days ago, but simply could not get it out of the cabinet without cutting the cord to the controller. When I got home I did some digging and discovered that the 3-prong receptacle could be unscrewed, and then the wires detached in the back, but at the time in a house without good lighting, DS and I could not figure that out.

Now I need to wire the controller back in, but am wondering if there is a *better* way to do this. Since the receptacle doo-dad is there, would it be easier to configure something so I could use a plug like what is on my 319? Where you just plug in the cord and the power and controller are connected in one fell swoop?

Or there is that other setup, where there's an outlet in the cabinet and two plugs, one for motor and one for lights (not sure that's a *better* setup, but would love to discuss pro's and cons)?

Inquiring minds want to know! Please tell me everything you can think of about this topic!

Cheers!

J Miller

Pamela,

There are wiring diagrams on the net. I can't post those here that I have because the moderators will delete them.
It's easy to fix the damage you did when you cut the wire. Just replace it, connecting it at both ends where the originals were.

The Japanese style cord block would require a complete rewire of the machine. The light and the motor would require a separate cord. The originals are wired together behind the block. Not worth the effort or funds.

Sew-Classic has both styles of wiring pre-made for your machine. And they'd probably have wiring diagrams too.

You have a great machine, don't ruin it by jury rigging the wiring. It's easy to fix correctly.

Joe

Ellpea

Hello Joe!
Thanks for the advice. Are we allowed to post links TO diagrams? or to PM them to someone? Just trying to avoid a possible future mistake of my own!

Although, if I'm just reconnecting the controller, I wouldn't necessarily need a diagram, would I? Just clean off the wires and reconnect them to the terminals?

And would it matter which controller wire went to what terminal -- or is there a definite wrong and right way?

Thank you again... I know, it's a very sweet machine and also very pretty. I'm excited about the potted motor, it seems a more sensible way of powering a machine (outside of treadling, of course)!

jlhmnj

Yes, keep it original. This way your replacing wire instead of figuring out what needs to be removed for double lead cord. Surprising how many of the double lead cords I've come across with the original dead end controller wire dangling.

Be careful
Jon

Ellpea

The cord for the controller goes through a hole in that metal spring piece that fits on the right side of the machine in the cabinet and also helps lift and lower. We really can't get the machine out of the cabinet (for transport) without cutting the wires. I used to think the "Light" and "Motor" outlet screwed inside the cabinet was kind of shabby electrical, but now I see the advantage!


Does anyone have any suggestions about how I can safely wire this controller and still keep the ability to remove the machine? Thank you for any help!

jlhmnj

With original setup only way to remove head from table without cutting cords is to undo ends at controller or at bakelite connector on head while UNPLUGGED.

For frequent head removal from table the double lead cord is best. You need to remove ALL of the old controller cord. Double lead cord provides new power and controller wire in one and is run outside of table and removed for storage. Controller for floor use only.

Please be safe and follow safe wiring practices. One careless mistake can kill.

Jon

Ellpea

Jon, first of all, thank you for your reply. This does help me a lot. Also, although I'm not an electrician, I DO want to follow safe wiring practices, which is why I REALLY ask questions before I do anything!

So now I am wondering... is the wire which is on the controller now not a double lead wire? I have very heavy duty cord (like a lamp cord but heftier) I bought for another project. Would that be appropriate?

Someone just told me that I could re-do the wire as it was before and just unscrew the metal plate the wire runs through when I need to remove the machine. That would work for me. In which case, should I replace the current wire with something else besides the hefty lamp cord?

jlhmnj

Here is first image I came across for "double lead cord". Most easily bought instead of made:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SINGER-S...-/290974859277

There is no quick and easy disconnect that I can think of when you controller wire runs through the hole in the black helper spring assembly. You need to undue one end of the wire or the other which takes a little time. If your machine will not be removed from the cabinet then this is the preferred set up. If you want something more easily removed like if your using multiple heads in one cabinet the "double lead cord" is best.

First step is to determine which "setup" you'd like. Perhaps someone can recommend a good online source that is relevant and much more thorough than this.

Jon

Ellpea

Oh, I SEE what you mean. I actually HAVE several of these! Would the cord setup from my FW *work* as is on the plug for the 15-91, or would I still need to reconfig? (Since the cord to the controller has been cut)

I also have the plug for the 401a, but that is a completely different setup...

jlhmnj

Yes, Exactly--the FW cord and controller would work. The old controller wire that was cut would need to be completely removed from the bakelite housing attached to the head by removing the terminal ends and putting the other wires in there original position. Nothing more is needed. Best to inspect other wires while your at it for deterioration. No real rewiring involved just removing the one cord and refastening everything back up.

Jon