Go Back  Quiltingboard Forums > Main > For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
Walking Foot for a Featherweight Question >

Walking Foot for a Featherweight Question

Walking Foot for a Featherweight Question

Thread Tools
 
Old 11-27-2011, 03:49 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: from MN and now in Texas
Posts: 232
Default

Hancocks carry generic feet and bobbins that fit the featherweights. They also have the walking feet for them.
BobbiG is offline  
Old 11-27-2011, 05:03 PM
  #12  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 4,144
Default

My sewing repairman said a generic low shank walking foot will work great on a featherweight.
Sandra in Minnesota is offline  
Old 11-27-2011, 05:07 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 429
Default

I wouldn't risk using parts from one machine on another ... I sure wouldn't want to damage my machine!
LindaDeeter is offline  
Old 11-27-2011, 05:22 PM
  #14  
Super Member
 
tellabella's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 1,130
Default

I tried my walking foot that was bought for a Kenmore(Janome compatible) and it did not work...I am sure it is a low shank but still it wouldn't go...I tried it very gently and saw that it just didn't move right so I took it off...I a interested to see which ones work...
tellabella is offline  
Old 11-28-2011, 06:28 AM
  #15  
Member
 
beachbug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sam Houston National Forest, TX
Posts: 20
Default

I have a walking foot made for a featherweight. I used it to put the binding on a quilt. It worked well. I felt like it was a
strain on the machine. I decided this might be one of those things that just because you can, maybe you shouldn't.
beachbug is offline  
Old 11-28-2011, 07:22 AM
  #16  
Super Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Owensboro, KY
Posts: 1,420
Default

Thanks everyone! You have convinced me that it's not worth the risk to try it. I'd rather protect the Featherweight than worry about the $20 or so dollars being a waste at this point.
KyKaren1949 is offline  
Old 11-28-2011, 04:17 PM
  #17  
Super Member
 
duckydo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Pleasant Hill MO
Posts: 1,669
Default

I would be afraid to try it, you can buy a walking foot for you featherweight
duckydo is offline  
Old 11-28-2011, 04:21 PM
  #18  
Super Member
 
patdesign's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: So. Fla now, Va orig
Posts: 1,565
Default

Most walking feet that are generic low shank will work on the featherweights, be careful of those that come with other machines as they may be slightly different. For Miriam who put a high shank on a Singer slant 401 OUCH. The Singer slant needle machines are a breed unto themselves and NOTHING other than slant attachments will work on them!
patdesign is offline  
Old 11-28-2011, 05:20 PM
  #19  
Power Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507
Default

Originally Posted by patdesign View Post
Most walking feet that are generic low shank will work on the featherweights, be careful of those that come with other machines as they may be slightly different. For Miriam who put a high shank on a Singer slant 401 OUCH. The Singer slant needle machines are a breed unto themselves and NOTHING other than slant attachments will work on them!
I learned a LOT with that Singer 401g machine... I learned that you do not use WD40, 3-in-1 oil or gun oil - it dries up like rubber cement. High shank feet to not fit slant shank machines - I tested that one out and had to re time the machine. I learned how to take apart the stitch selector and cam stack (3-in-1 really gummed up.) Then I learned that denatured alcohol would dissolve 3-in-1 oil anyway... gotta keep it off the paint. I learned how to clean up and overhaul the motor. I have learned how to change out a needle shaft and re-time. I learned that the German made Slant-o-matics will treadle. I didn't have a manual and didn't find one on line for a long time so I learned what combinations worked to change stitches by trial and error - mostly error - then I figure out all you really need to know is right on the lid - duh... I learned that you HAVE to keep the piece that goes back and forth by the needle bar and near the cam stack from gunking up - a lot of those machines come gummed up in those places. I learned that the 403 and the 503 are easier to use and do the same stuff. I learned that there are two kinds of buttonholers for those slant-o-matics - one that zigzags and one that moves the fabric back and forth. I learned that the feed dog cover that comes with the professional button holer doesn't work as well as the older one. I learned that you can wind the bobbin while you are sewing by putting a spool on the lower holder and running the bobbin as you sew - sweet... The 411 came with a part that goes around the throat plate so if you raise it you can FM. The 401G and the 411G can do chain stitches - I have yet to try. (Maybe one day when Iris comes over.)
miriam is offline  
Old 11-28-2011, 06:03 PM
  #20  
Super Member
 
patdesign's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: So. Fla now, Va orig
Posts: 1,565
Default

Originally Posted by miriam View Post
I learned a LOT with that Singer 401g machine... I learned that you do not use WD40, 3-in-1 oil or gun oil - it dries up like rubber cement. High shank feet to not fit slant shank machines - I tested that one out and had to re time the machine. I learned how to take apart the stitch selector and cam stack (3-in-1 really gummed up.) Then I learned that denatured alcohol would dissolve 3-in-1 oil anyway... gotta keep it off the paint. I learned how to clean up and overhaul the motor. I have learned how to change out a needle shaft and re-time. I learned that the German made Slant-o-matics will treadle. I didn't have a manual and didn't find one on line for a long time so I learned what combinations worked to change stitches by trial and error - mostly error - then I figure out all you really need to know is right on the lid - duh... I learned that you HAVE to keep the piece that goes back and forth by the needle bar and near the cam stack from gunking up - a lot of those machines come gummed up in those places. I learned that the 403 and the 503 are easier to use and do the same stuff. I learned that there are two kinds of buttonholers for those slant-o-matics - one that zigzags and one that moves the fabric back and forth. I learned that the feed dog cover that comes with the professional button holer doesn't work as well as the older one. I learned that you can wind the bobbin while you are sewing by putting a spool on the lower holder and running the bobbin as you sew - sweet... The 411 came with a part that goes around the throat plate so if you raise it you can FM. The 401G and the 411G can do chain stitches - I have yet to try. (Maybe one day when Iris comes over.)
When I first got my 401 it sat for a long time with me using only the zig zag and straight stitches, it truly intimidated me. Now I must say that it is my favorite machine other than my brother quilter and embroidery machines. Of course I love my featherweights but for overall versatility and heftiness I think that the 401 is in a class of its own. I assume your 401g is the German equivalent of the Am. made, I wish my 401 would chain stitch, but it does not.
patdesign is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lots2do
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
13
12-29-2012 01:08 PM
trrmite
Main
21
10-20-2011 05:11 PM
Beachbaby12
Main
4
01-27-2011 06:58 PM
Annaleehunter
Main
6
10-24-2010 05:34 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



FREE Quilting Newsletter