ArlaJo

I bought this Singer for $25. at a yard sale, just because. It is in a cabinet and doesn't work. The serial # is AH739839. Can anyone tell me anything about it? I am going to take it in to see if it's fixable.

Thanks

costumegirl

According to your serial number and referring to ISMACS I think you have a Model 66 from 1948.

http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_mach...l-numbers.html

costumegirl

Post a picture

Mickey2

A 66 in a cabinet is lovely to work on. It's worth fixing it up and I know it is well within reach. It might only need cleaning and oiling, and I suspect the wiring needs a thorough check. Does it have a stitch length lever or a round turn knob? The later model 66 was given a stitch length lever with reverse.

OurWorkbench

It is probably a 66-16 with a reverse. I have one that is a little older AH serial number and that is what mine is.

ArlaJo, my word of warning would be if you take it to someone to check it out, make sure they know about and like working on this vintage machine. I've read horror stories. There are some good OSMG out there, one just needs to be careful as to who they take it to. Most of the time, these machine just need cleaning and oiling. If it is motor work, that is another story. Still doable if you have the skill set and willingness.

YES, we like pictures.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

bkay

What doesn't work? Does it not move at all? Does it not turn on? Do you hear nothing from the motor? Is the plug bad? Does it not make a stitch? Let us know what doesn't work. Maybe we can steer you to some solutions. Here, you can expect a trip to the sewing machine store to cost at least $125.00. The guy I use will do an assessment for $25.00 and tell you what's wrong, though.

bkay

miriam

Almost every Singer 66 or 99 I buy comes stuck and very dirty. (A 99 is mechanically the same) Pay attention to the grunge in the bobbin area. Once it is free those machines turn real sweet. Those machines are a science lesson in physics of simple machines, levers, pistons, etc. there are roller bearings in that machine that will need to be freed. Each thing that moves will need to be totally cleaned and oiled. If you miss one it may still not move. Picky work but worth the effort. I have a Singer 99 hand crank I use a lot these days. She is much more reliable than a Featherweight.

ArlaJo

I found someone local who works on old Singers. She's a collector. The wiring has been cut?? Why anyone would do that is beyond me. I will clean it before I take it to her just because I want to play with it a bit. Is there a special something I should use to clean it? I will try to post a picture. Sometimes I can and other times I can't. Thanks for the comments.

Mickey2

The gentlest is basic sewing machine oil and swirly motions with cotton wool. If it's very dirty you might have to try different things. I have used microfiber cloths well wringed up in soapy water. A resin based car polish will lift up further dirt. Don't use any thing too harsh, the black shellac finish will ruin if exposed to alcohol, and spray can oils are known to have ruined decals. Be careful. Once clean and polish a gentle wipe down is enough to keep it clean and shiny. I polish my 201 once a year with Autoglym extra gloss sealant (what I can easily buy here, there are lots of similar stuff). The "sealant" or "glaze" version is the same as the polish with out the gritty part, but you might need the gritty part during the initial cleaning.

You can safely use spray can stuff on the internal parts if they are very grimy; if only a bit dry a good clean out of dust and sewing machine oil will do the job just as well, just takes a bit longer too loosen old grime. Metal bits like needle and presser bar will clean up like new with the right polish, as well as the chromed plates. If there's rust and pitting it will not look like new again, but it will still clean and polish up well enough.

Mickey2

The gentlest is basic sewing machine oil and swirly motions with cotton wool. If it's very dirty you might have to try different things. I have used microfiber cloths well wringed up in soapy water. A resin based car polish will lift up further dirt. Don't use any thing too harsh, the black shellac finish will ruin if exposed to alcohol, and spray can oils are known to have ruined decals. Don't leave any depness on the machine, and be careful. Once clean and polished a gentle wipe down is enough to keep it clean and shiny. I polish my 201 once a year with Autoglym extra gloss sealant (what I can easily buy here, there are lots of similar stuff). The "sealant" or "glaze" version is the same as the polish with out the gritty part, but you might need the gritty part during the initial cleaning. Expect to use a lot of cotton swabs, cloths, poking around with tooth picks and reading up on the manual to detect all oil points.

You can safely use spray can stuff on the internal parts if they are very grimy; if only a bit dry a good clean out of dust and sewing machine oil will do the job just as well, just takes a bit longer too loosen old grime. Metal bits like needle and presser bar will clean up like new with the right polish, as well as the chromed plates. If there's rust and pitting it will not look like new again, but it will still clean and polish up well enough. The cabinet will shine up with a good furntiture polish, there are lots of speciality products to revive worn or damaged surfaces.