oldsewnsew

So I'm missing a bit off the top of this Wilcox & Gibbs. Can anyone tell me the overall length of the needle bar, or shoot a pic next to a rule. I think I can modify the "hacked" part. There is a notch, which holds a little rectangular thing with a leaf spring. Mine also has that little post mushed on the top and I think thread goes thru?
a pic of mine.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]477143[/ATTACH]

What it should look like.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]477144[/ATTACH]
And what does that leaf spring and rectangular piece do?
Thanks, befuddled and betwixt

Macybaby

That leaf spring appears to be part that helps hold the thread in place.



It's sort of "self threading" as you pull the thread at the top, and it slips under the leaf spring, then drops down and is held in place. Since it sits on top of the metal that is part of hte needle bar, I assume that it acts as some sort of tension device, but maybe not. As the needle bar goes up, it's going to raise the thread into the area where the leaf spring is in contact with that bar, and I assume that adds tension of some sort - have not sewed on the machine so I've never watched what it actually does.

Here are the pictures - you can do the math LOL!!

Macybaby

More pictures - that part that "wraps around" the thread guide would be important -




Here it is, needle all the way up, and you can see how this would cause the "tension" to be engaged by the thread.



All the way down.




BTW - if you locate a donor machine, I need the needle plate (or what ever it's called) Mine has a bent corner, does not hurt function but I'd replace it if I got the chance.

oldsewnsew

Thanks so much, wonder why they cut it off and if it'll operate ok without it. I'll be looking andfor sure on the needle plate as mine is a New Home. Most are W&G

oldsewnsew

I'll bet someone set needlebar for a different needle length, and then that didnt w ork right so they cut it off.

Macybaby

Hate when they do stuff like that - probably figured they weren't out anything if it didn't work . . . or it's a needle bar for something different - just happened to fit.

I really wanted an Eldredge Automatic - but I also wanted WG, I suppose some day I'll have both . . .

oldsewnsew

The needle bar seems unique to this design, whatever the label. The needle clamp being a nut with tapered threads.

oldsewnsew

So this is a metalworking question related to this. I made a brass part to fit in the place of the missing section. I drill and tapped it 6-32 on my little lathe. Problem is, my hi speed steel cutting tools, center drill and drillbit and tap won't touch the needle bar with out going dull, and even if I had a carbide cutter, (which I don't) I'd still not be able to drill and tap it. So what do I need to do, heat it cherry red and dip it in water, machine it, reheat it and let it cool slowly?[ATTACH=CONFIG]477687[/ATTACH]

SteveH

[QUOTE=oldsewnsew;6742708]... So what do I need to do, heat it cherry red and dip it in water, machine it, reheat it and let it cool slowly?/QUOTE]

reverse the sequence.

Steel and Brass/Copper are opposite when it comes to hardening and annealing (softening).

Steel Hardening:Steel Annealing:Brass/Copper Hardening:Brass Copper Annealing:

oldsewnsew

Yeah, thanks Steve, googling before I did anything got me back on the right track. I clamped it and heated it with propane torch, dropped in under woodstove ash and let it set. After that it machined easily, after I resharpened the dull cutting tools. I put it together. and put a hole for the thread to pass through at the top, as the other take up arrangement seemed pretty messed up. [ATTACH=CONFIG]478328[/ATTACH] Once I debrurred that thread hole it sewed beautifully! I'm excited? Now I have an idea for a hand crank mechanism, if it works, I think you HC fans will appreciated it.