I make a lot of my own clothes due to fitting problems. But I have found a clue that helps a lot. If I am making a jacket, I measure one of my ready made that fit just perfect, and then measure the pattern pieces (minus the seam allowances) and alter the pattern to fit the ready made measurements. This gives me the ease I like and the length of sleeve and the length for the jacket. With the newer patterns that have several sizes, you can choose which marking you need with say a 12 for the shoulder, a 14 for the bust, etc.