To say the least there is a lot of controversy concerning this topic.
Here is one site that deals with these very issues
http://www.tabberone.com and specifically the issue of licensed fabric
http://www.tabberone.com/Trademarks/...edFabric.shtml.
The area of copyright and licensing has become so complex even if you hire five different intellectual property lawyers to address your concerns, you will get five very different expert opinions.