Generally the size of the needle to use depends on a lot of variables. The thinner the thread, of course, the smaller the needle, but if the thread breaks the solution in most cases is to switch to a larger eye needle. The larger needle may leave slightly larger holes on the fabric, but those heal on their own. I suggest you start with a regular universal and change if you need to. It is more important that the needle is sharp and straight. Change at the start of each project or after a long time in use if working on a large project.