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Old 02-10-2011, 08:35 AM
  #7  
Glenn
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
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Originally Posted by Glenn
Originally Posted by misseva
Originally Posted by Glenn
Originally Posted by misseva
Glenn - here are pix of the bad places on my machine.
That would be a lot of putty. I would rather see you replace all the veneer on the top. The missing veneer are rather large spaces. I you want to try the putty make sure all the loose veneer aroung the edges are glue down before applying the wood filler. There is solid wood under the veneer so you might be better off to remove the veneer sand the top to make it smooth and use it this until you can put new veneer on. The veneer is oak so you easily to this yourself. You can buy oak veneer a Lowes. When the weather gets better and you can get to one and you are ready I will talk you thru it. It is not hard and you can do it your bedroom. The veneer is so loose you can scrape it off with a putty knife by pushing it under the loose veneer. Glenn
Scraping the veneer off and sanding what's left was one of the things I wondered about. I really think that's more in line with my abilities. What would you use to finish it with after removing the veneer and sanding?
After sanding smooth you may want apply a stain the same color as the rest of the cabinet so it will not stick out like a sore thumb. Then apply a couple of coats of shellac. You can also if you do not intend to put new veneer you can use a water based poly on it. you should be fine and functional. If someday you want the veneer replace the poly will have to be stripped off for the contact glue to stick.
There might be two layers of veneer an under layer going in the opposite grain of the top veneer. If this is glued tight don't worry about it. But if loose and cracked it will come off to. Look at the edge of the top with no moulding(edge where hinges are that lift the lid.) you shold be able to see the edges of the venner on the edge and where the solid wood starts.
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