I once saw a class for custom fitted bras - the class was crazy expensive - like $200. Now that I'm older and things have... shifted... I wish I'd done it.
On the bottom, I'm an all cotton girl. For the top, I've found that my size usually means those flippin' underwires. Tell me a man didn't come up with that plan! I'll put an underwire in their shorts and see how that goes. Anyhow, I make a small snip in the center front and yank those underwires right out. Ahhhh.