You could try using one of the old tracing wheel implements that we used to use decades ago for marking seams when garment sewing. It's a little toothed wheel on a handle. Run that over your quilting design to put holes in the paper and then use quilting chalk (pounce type) to mark the design on your quilt. I believe there is also a tool called a Chaco Liner that is supposed to marry to two processes but I've not had much luck with it. But you can get chalk refills for those as well. Good luck with the hand quilting. I love doing it and don't like machine quilting either. It takes time to get a rhythm going but patience and persistence pays off. Don't worry about number of stitches to the inch, just try to be consistent with your stitches.