Originally Posted by Afton
I am having a terrible time reading the pattern I picked up. its more or less a sundress pattern and its marked as easy but i am so not getting it. plus i think i may need to make it smaller in the bust area and wider in the hip which is freaking me out.
I'm thinking of doing a cheaters one at this point. maybe trace a tank top for the top and attach a circle skirt, but at the empire waist? would that work?
When altering your pattern, do not forget ease. Standard ease is 4" bust and 2" hips. I think for us large ladies, we would need more for a slim skirt, they tend to pull up.
If your pattern is multi-sized, you can tell where/how you need to alter. Did you measure your body? You need to do that & compare to the pattern. Generally says on the back. say there's a 20, 22, 24. If it is too big at one, cut at the next smaller. Ditto hips, if you are bigger than the pattern, you can see how much to increase it by the increase of the three printed lines. One thought. For detailed fittings, for wedding dresses, I made the garment first out of sheets. You can pick those up for next to nothing at 2nd hand. Mark the center line of folds with a sharpie. Large stitches, with a heavy thread in the bobbin. I generally use buttonhole twist. slides out without breaking. Now, your taken apart sheet garment becomes your pattern. Sharpie lines become your fold line marking.
Simplicity is on sale at joanns this week $1, limit 10.
dd's comment about 4h is a good one. The county extention office in my county (probably the whole state) holds free sewing lessons.
I'm not certain a full circle skirt attached empire would give the effect you are hoping for.
Here is a cut & Paste of my comments to another garment making member:
NO purchased garment has EVER fit me properly. 6' 1" short waisted, hourglass sloping to pear shape. 36' inseam (same as my 6' 7" brother )
Time was (BC-before child ) I made all my own clothing. Jeans, coats, skirts, suits, etc.
Find some $1 yd fabric or buy a couple of sturdy goodwill poly cotton sheets. Get the Butterick fitting pattern. It is a waisted (true waist) straight skirted dress. The directions start you out on a full range of measurement taking. Make the dress in your sheet or $1 yd fabric. pin it write on it, etc. Sew the dress and darts in basting stitch, contrasting color thread. You can put a zipper in if you want, or have someone pin you in from the back, or you can sew the back shut leave the underarm side seam open, and pin yourself into it. make all your adjustments on the sheet dress, adjusting fit of all seams & darts. Cut the sheet dress's seams down to 5/8", cut it down into its components, draw the darts in before you take them apart. Use the sheet dress as your fitting pattern with any Butterick pattern you like. It's is extra work, but the end product is worth it. I have made 2 wedding dresses using this method for SIL & BFF.
A note about darts. Regardless of a woman's size the accuracy of the dart placement will make a wonderous difference in a garment's fit. Find the most outward part, the body's "point". On me, large woman, I drop down one inch, and toward the side seam one inch. THAT is the point of the dart. NOT right out ther on the body's point. If your bust is petite in addition to being a petite woman, your moves may not be one inch, but I think you get the picture.
Another dart suggestion, is to use a pattern with princess seams. Thus, no bust dart. You still need to know how to do darts, for back shoulders & on the waistline of skirts & pants.
Sew darts from widest to narrow. If it is pointed on both ends, start in the middle, go to the end, twice. As you stitch, aim for 1/4 inch short on your angle, not to the tip of the dart. When you get to the point, take 3-4 stitches parallel to the fold of the fabric. this smooths the end out to nothing, and no dart pucker.
Everything else, the pattern will tell you how to do.
Happy stitching & keep asking questions.