Originally Posted by dyer804
I have purchased assorted batiks to do the Tradewinds quilt. This is my first time using batiks so I need some advice. I usually do not prewash my fabrics but I know that batiks are different. Do I wash them in hot, warm, or cold water? - *YES, HOT WATER (see notes below)
Do I add white vinegar or salt to set the fabric dyes?
*NO - waste of time and money
Should I use a Shout color catcher? *YES, could help
Can I wash all the colors at the same time or do I need to do each individually or separate them into lights and darks?
*SEPARATE OUT LIGHTS, DARKS. RED, ALWAYS, ALWAYS ALONE
I have invested more money than usual in this fabric and want to do it right! Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!
***HERE IS SOME EXPLANATION:
Thanks for posting. THis is a great chance to dispel
some myths etc. I am a hand dyer of cotton and silks. I have also made batiks in classroom several times.
1. Batiks are made by applying wax with stamps called Tjaps (pronounced "chops") primarily in Indonesia.. Higher count cotton is applied with wax, dyed and redyed. Each washing in hot water to release that dye color used also "melts" the wax and with the soap too it washes out.
2. Vinegar is used during the dye process to set "acid" dyes on silk, wool and other "protein" fiber (vs plant fiber-cotton). Acid doesn't mean you use actual acid. You can use citric acid - Fruit Fresh - or vinegar. The point is you are raising the ph to 4 (vs 11-less acidic for cotton) to set the dye particles. Using it after the dyeing is over is of no use. Dye is viable for only about 45 min in the dyebath. After that, the extra "spent" dye is in the dyebath. It is "used up" - particles that can attach have...you cannot "re-fix" with vinegar or any other acid.
3. Salt is used in the solution used to mix cotton dye into a liquid concentrate. It is also used in the container you dye in with the water and liquid concentrate. Salt increases the electron activity and "pushes" the dye particles into the dye fibers. It is indespensible in getting bright, intense colors during the dye process. Once it is dyed, it is of no further use.
4. Others talk about the color catchers as being helpful. I have never used them. As a dyer I use a product called Synthropol (soapish liquid) or Reyatne to pre-wash fabric others give me. Both of these products isolate the used up, but UN-WASHED out dye particles. You only need a TB per a load in the washer of fabric. I am told on the dying list I belong to that Dawn liquid diswashng soap-no perfume or dyes-is the same type of soap.
5. I always pre-wash. Just last moth, was in a hurry to finish a flannel quilt for my pre-teen boy with dogs. One wash in cold...the pale yellow released extra unwashed dye and is now a shade of pink. ALWAYS WASH. I think God was reminding me. As a dyer, I should know better. I tripple wash the hand dyes I make in hot water and the mentioned products. I STILL have problem sometimes. Especially red. It is the hardest dye particle to wash out effectively as it is a very small, almost dust size particle and can really wedge itself into the weave of the fabric.
A good pre test in a hurry is to put the fabric on an old towel. THen mist pretty heavy with warm water. Cover with paper towel sheets and put a book on top. Let it dry and check it. Even if you get nothing, pre-wash. If it is really bad you will know to maybe do it alone, in a lingere bag if small piece...or extra rinse etc. I hope some of this information helps.
GREAT questions and I would love to see a finished photo with the batiks. One quick point, batik has a higher thread count. You will need a larger tip, sharp needle. You will wear out your needle sooner. Also NO fabric softener in the dryer...the residue will really wear out your rotary blade. Best to dry mostly dry and then finish with an iron. Smaller pieces in hosiery bag. GOod luck.