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Old 01-18-2012, 04:18 PM
  #4  
DogHouseMom
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Knot Merrill, Southern Indiana
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I'm one that won't rip. I don't trust that it's always straight, it ripples the edges and you will still have to cut that edge to get it straight (not rippled).

I fold it as many times as necessary that I'm comfortable with, then make one generous cut (ie if I need 5" I'll cut 5.25"). When you fold it you need to make sure that it folds on the straight of grain or you'll get that dreaded V in the fold. With 90" of fabric ... that may be difficult hence the generous 5.25". Once I have the 90" cut, I'll then use a pair of rulers to make sure that any V's are removed and the whole 90" is straight.

Or ... depending on the fabric you can always piece it. If it's a solid (or tonal, or small print) then it's a cinch to piece. If it's a larger print you'll have to cut extra to match the seams. I've also found that when piecing borders or long sashing a diagonal seam where pieced helps hide piecing more than a horizontal seam.

Another option if it's sashing that you are doing is to employ corner blocks instead of a solid piece of sashing. This way, it looks like you planned it that way!

The LAST option, which is what I did the first time I had to cut a long piece of sashing ... I went to my husband's shop and laid the fabric on the floor (which is always clean), then I used a 12' length of aluminum (4" wide by 1/4" thick) to cut the fabric. My husband and his buddy stood on each end of the aluminum while I moved along the floor cutting! Yes ... it worked, but it was not fun and it's not always easy to find a 12' length of something that is dead straight (don't trust wood 2x4's - those are not straight!).

Last edited by DogHouseMom; 01-18-2012 at 04:22 PM.
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