Originally Posted by
BoJangles
I had a teacher tell me once, "treasure your mistakes, they are pearls you learn by." Well, maybe one of these days I will treasure my mistake of letting little Marcus in my sewing room when I wasn't there! That is I might treasure my mistake because it forced me to learn how to time a machine! But why did he have to pick on my 319w? I guess, in the end it will be a good thing, because it forces me to dig a little deeper into these machines than I wanted to! Well, the jury is still out on this mistake - I STILL HAVE TO FIX THIS MACHINE!
Nancy
Sorry everyone, I am venting here! Better than venting at DH, who is sick with the flu, which is forcing me to stay in anyway! I'd rather be happily sewing with the 319w than trying to fix it all day long!
There are some videos on timing if it of any help. I'm figureing on taking Ray White's class for all my frustrating machines... LOL I picked up a FW tonight - looks like something the dog dragged in. The motor is totally loose and the belt is shot - it is missing the bobbin case and I haven't looked at it yet... Oh it isn't as well badged as my mom's machine. Here is a very simplistic and rather generic cartoon of how some machines work:
http://www.swiss-miss.com/2009/09/ho...ine-works.html - some idea how it goes... cartoon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sE2um...eature=related
utube video on timing - there are more just search sewing machine timing - utube
Cathy wrote some timing instructions recently
it can be hard to find so I copied her words here: This is window #31859 and #31861
"Most sewing machine problems are due to the carbon based unit in the chair in front of the machine"
The needlebar movement is usually measured at the bushing just where the bar enters and exits the head. The best way is with a gauge until experience allows you to eyeball it.
Many Singers (ie 401, 500 and others of that era) and sometimes other brands have two timing marks (score lines) on the needlebar. On these you lower the needlebar to it’s lowest point (DBC) the upper timing mark will just be at the bottom of the bushing. Then raise the needlebar until the lower timing mark is in the position that the upper mark was at before moving. This movement was .093”.
You said that the machine is stitching with its new needle. Leave it, after all this is your goal. The .093” measurement is an old industry standard. The factory and techs in the field learn that you sometimes have to fudge this due to casting and machining variances.
Use the .093” as a starting point.
The Japanese 15 machines with the bobbincasse/ hook facing the left usually have the timing pin set. If this has been changed it is very evident. The pin will have been punched or drilled out and the hole threaded for the set screw and usually another hole will be drilled and tapped for the second set screw.. So unless there is a set screw or two at the timing point, I doubt that the timing has changed. It probably has always been just barely off of the standard .093”.
Hope I helped.
Cathy
I can tell you I spent a month trying to figure out how to do what you are doing once - I didn't know you could find info on the internet. I would work at it awhile get frustrated and quit - go back and fiddle with it awhile and one day I took the whole mess apart and put it back together and for what ever reason it ran. You want to make sure the screws are VERY tight when you get it right - ask me how I know that.