I use a good quality fabric for just one layer. Either Kona white or a white on white that feels thicker. If you use the new non-slip hoops with the locking ridge, it holds your fabric taut and you will not get any puckering. I knot my thread to start and when I am finished with a line, I weave both of my ends into the stitches on the back. Find out what works best for you and have fun!