I never use size 90/14 needles for piecing. I like very thin thread so 50 2 ply is the thickest thread I use. I use topstitch titanium size 70/10 and 80/12 needles for all my piecing. Right now I'm using Aurifil 50 2 ply cotton thread because I found a great sale and bought a box of 24 spools. I use Superior Organ brand needles except in my vintage Singers. I use Singer needles for those.