I don't do a lot of reverse applique but I do needle turn applique. I agree, the tighter the weave the better it is to applique with. The only material I really will not applique with is homespun. As for turning under I think 1/4 to 1/8 is good. You didn't say with method of applique you are using. If you are doing needle turn and the applique piece looks to angular, go back around it and tuck in those spots that look to pointy. You can make it work.