View Single Post
Old 10-27-2009, 08:10 AM
  #11  
Prism99
Power Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
Default

Originally Posted by Ellen 1
Are the doll quilts "made to scale" like a regular minature? i.e. the binding.....
Not really, but on doll stuff you try to get as close as possible so things look approximately in proportion. On most doll quilts, a standard 1/4" binding will look fine. Typical doll houses are 1/12th scale, though, so quilts for doll houses need special handling in order to get the tiniest binding possible. I won't give those directions here, but I'll try to outline my rather unusual binding process. I use it because it helps make my bindings go on faster and more accurately without glitches -- on regular quilts as well as doll quilts!

I heavily starch the binding fabric before cutting; this makes the cuts more accurate.

I do not trim the quilt sandwich before applying binding. Instead, I mark the cutting line (not the sewing line!) on the quilt top with a Sharpie permanent marker (so the marker won't bleed later when the quilt is washed). For me, this line is usually 1/4" from the sewing line. After marking the Sharpie line, I machine baste about 1/8" inside the Sharpie line to fasten all layers of the quilt sandwich edges together (and check the underside before proceeding, to make sure there are no tucks along the edge).

To sew on the binding, I match the cut edges of the binding with the Sharpie line on the sandwich and sew 1/4" in. When mitering corners, you match to the Sharpie line rather than the quilt edge. Only after the binding is sewn on satisfactorily (I check everything again at this point) do I trim all the layers to 1/4" or whatever width makes the binding fold nicely to the other side.

This is a good method for doll quilts because it pretty much ensures good edge handling. The technique can be modified for dollhouse scale quilts to produce a 1/8" binding, but I won't post those modifications here.
Prism99 is offline